295 memorable wild places, drives, hikes, and other regional tidbits
Eye of the Needle, Echo Canyon sunset
Primitive roads listed in this guide are rated for difficulty, on a five-class scale. Severe weather events can dramatically change this rating during a given time period. Please check with Death Valley National Park rangers prior to attempting access of any locale listed here.
Journal Entry: Day Two - April 26, Tuesday It's mid-morning, and I am heading up the Lippencott Road to access The Racetrack's moving boulders. My original plan was to travel over the Hunter Mountain road after having breakfast at the Panamint Springs Resort, but I abandoned that idea once I reached Jackass Spring, which is still quite flooded and very muddy this late April. The risk of getting stuck and tearing up the terrain is not worth it. So, the Lippencott Road is choice two. This road has a bad reputation, and is not advisable to novice explorers. Today it has some washouts and very narrow cliff sections, but I make it with only a scratched, and slightly dented, wheel rim as testament to its fearful image. The road was used to access the old Lippencott lead mine, and is about seven miles long, with the upper four miles of it quite challenging. In that four miles, an elevation gain of about 2,000 feet is realized. I am pleased to see an old entry sign to Death Valley National Monument midway up this road, an artifact that predates National Park status in 1994.
AGUEREBERRY POINT: Originally named "Grand View" by Bob Eichbaum, the developer of Stovepipe Wells, Aguereberry Point now is named after Jean Pierre Aguereberry, a prospector of the area. This viewpoint is 6,433 feet above sea level in the Panamint Range, and offers spectacular views of the surrounding region. Eichbaum graded the road to this overlook to compete with the borax men out of Furnace Creek, who were taking tourists to Dante's View on a road they had built up into the Black Mountains of the Amargosa Range. Tourist dollars were the reason behind both of these fine modern-day attractions. Furnace Creek is visible in the much warmer valley far below, with the Amargosa Range and the State of Nevada farther east. Aguereberry Point is easily reached in any BEV, on a 7 mile class 1-2 dirt road, with 4wd rarely necessary.
ALLUVIAL FAN: Over incomprehensible lengths of time, thousands and millions of years, earthen debris in the form of pebbles, rocks, boulders, and dirt are transported down canyons from the high mountains into the valleys below by erosive events like wind and rain. As this ground material settles during its travel downhill, with the larger and heavier matter coming to a rest sooner, it fans out over the landscape. When viewed from above at a distance, it looks like a colossal earthen fan, thus the term alluvial fan. Alluvium is a term describing sediment deposited by water. When we hike or drive on these alluvial fans, we are often not even aware of their presence, thinking that we are just traveling over normal ground. To see this firsthand, view the Panamint Range from Dante's View in the Amargosa Range (paved and accessible by standard auto) - you will see these gigantic sediment fans originating in all the canyons, like Hanaupah, Trail, Galena, and Johnson. So much sediment has eroded from the Panamint and Amargosa Ranges over the eons that solid bedrock is about 10,000 feet below the floor of Death Valley!
AMARGOSA DESERT: This remote desert lies in Nevada, just east of the Funeral Mountains in Death Valley, and runs north from the lightly populated area of the Amargosa Valley to Beatty and Rhyolite. There are three dirt road entrances from the Amargosa Desert into Death Valley National Park through the Amargosa Range.
AMARGOSA RANGE: This mountain range, running along the eastern edge of Death Valley, roughly parallels the Panamint Range to the west. The Amargosa Range is home to (north to south) the Grapevine Mountains, Funeral Mountains, and the Black Mountains. There are many fine geological wonders to behold in these mountains.
AMARGOSA RIVER: What? A river out here? Yes, it's true, and it has been called the longest underground river in existence. It doesn't rain much out here in the Amargosa territory, and when it does, it often comes in cloudbursts, and the water is quickly shed down the canyons as flash floods and funneled south in what is known as the Amargosa River. It is after such events that the Amargosa sometimes reveals itself. Charles Julian, the dishonest promoter of Leadfield in Titus Canyon, actually lured potential investors to part with their money in 1926 by the use of drawings in his handbills showing ships carrying his ore sailing down the Amargosa River. The river heads southward through the Amargosa Valley of Nevada for about one hundred miles, takes a turn westerly around Saratoga Spring, and then heads north into Death Valley proper.
ANIMALS: According to the book, "Smithsonian Guides to Natural America, The Far West", wildlife is abundant in the Death Valley territory, with "close to 400 species, including 290 bird species, 57 mammals, 36 reptiles, 3 amphibians, and 5 species of pupfish." So as you can see, we are not alone. Most are nocturnal, taking advantage of the cooler nights. Bighorn sheep are possible at Willow Springs and other remote and higher elevations, and Pupfish are a potential sight at Salt Creek and Saratoga Spring.
ANVIL SPRING: In the gorgeous and remote Butte Valley, in the southern region of the National Park, is Anvil Spring, a peaceful place where water flows, a nice tree stands, and a cabin made of rocks provides shelter for anyone in need. Many animals of the area come here for water, especially at night. The dwelling is called Geologist's Cabin, and is surprisingly well equipped with living essentials. The views of Striped Butte are unsurpassed in late afternoon and early morning.
ANVIL SPRING CANYON: If you wish to hike from Anvil Spring down into the floor of Death Valley, via Mesquite Spring, this canyon provides a roadless choice for the adventurous pedestrian. You can pick it up southeast of Anvil Spring less than two miles, near Willow Spring.
AQUIFER: A geological formation containing and conveying groundwater, the aquifer upon which Death Valley sits is essential to maintaining the region's minimal water supply. This aquifer spans roughly 40,000 square miles, extending under several states, and is reportedly being depleted by rapidly growing southern Nevada towns faster than it can be replenished by natural precipitation.
ARGUS RANGE: The western edge of the Panamint Valley is bordered by these mountains, which run from around Darwin to the north, to Searles Dry Lake to the south. Much of the Argus Range is now within the boundaries of the China Lake Naval Weapons Center, which runs from the town of Ridgecrest north to the town of Darwin. There are a few good 4wd roads to explore in these mountains, including Snow Canyon and Lookout Mountain, but all the roads dead end into the Argus Range Wilderness Area, so you have to come out how you went in. The views in the region are expansive.
ARTIST'S PALETTE: A lovely rainbow of colors in the earth, the result of various minerals that have been oxidized from protracted exposure to the elements, greets your eyes at this location. Later in the day when the sun is lower, the colors are more vivid. It is a short drive south of Furnace Creek on the Badwater Road. Artist's Palette is easily reached by any vehicle, on a paved road, in 2wd.
ASHFORD MILL RUINS: Harold, Henry, and Louis Ashford were brothers who refused to give up their search for riches. They worked the "Golden Treasure" mine, but never got rich. The remains of their efforts can be seen in the southern end of the valley at the Ashford mill and mine, near Shoreline Butte. Ashford Mill is easily reached by any BEV, on a quarter-mile class 1 dirt road, with 4wd not necessary.
AVAWATZ MOUNTAINS: Just outside of the southern Death Valley National Park boundary lie the Avawatz Mountains, not far from Saratoga Spring and the Harry Wade road. They will be to your west if you are traveling Highway 127 to or from Baker. The Fort Irwin military reservation cuts across a portion of their crest, and there is one 6 mile 4wd road that allows exploration into the northern Avawatz, but only until the military boundary is reached, and then further travel is prohibited. Prospectors in 1906 found some promising sites in these mountains, and thought that they had located some hundred year old mines once worked by the Spanish, so they started the Crackerjack Mining Company and people poured into the area to share the riches. The Crackerjack Auto Transport Company started business and a post office opened to handle a growing and hopeful population of prospectors.
BACKROADS: These are the roads that fortunately have no pavement covering them, and in the Death Valley territory, there are over 1300 miles worth. These are the roads where you will find the adventure you seek, and the kind that I seek out for their seclusion. They are the roads not taken, and they will make all the difference in your remote backcountry experiences! Truth be known, a dusty vehicle just plain looks a whole lot better anyway than one all shined up and sparkly.
BADLANDS: In the northern portion of the Black Mountains, just south of the convergence of Highways 190 and 178, are the popular landforms that most folks would term badlands. You can easily access them via pavement and a few minutes drive from the Furnace Creek resort facilities. If you park at the Zabriskie Point parking lot, it will be nearly impossible not to start snapping photographs, and then for the more able-bodied of us, take a hike in the foreboding landscape just below. I call this area south of the parking area the Wrinkles of Zabriskie. From here, a nice hike west down into Golden Canyon can provide a memorable experience. Of course, out here in the Death Valley territory, badlands are where you find them, and I am sure that many locales throughout the region will meet contemporary definitions of the term.
BADWATER: At 282 feet below sea level, this area is the place to be if you like heat. Badwater itself is not that low, but the surrounding area dips to those numbers, making it the lowest walkable land in America. It is doubtful that anywhere on the planet gets hotter than this place, with unofficial claims as high as 150 degrees Fahrenheit. It is in the valley, trapped between the Panamint and Amargosa mountain ranges. There is also a water pool here that is filled by a natural spring. Badwater is easily reached by any vehicle, on a turnout from the paved road. Some years, people actually Kayak out here after unusually heavy rain runoff.
BADWATER BASIN LAKE: You won't always find it, because it's not always here. Depending on the weather circumstances of the particular year, you may well find a shallow lake at Badwater Basin in the central valley. Heavy rains, especially in August, can cause the basin to fill with water runoff from the surrounding mountain ranges, since they are so dry and have little vegetation to restrain the flow. And if you were here a few thousand years ago, you would have witnessed a massive lake that was up to 800 feet deep, covering the valley floor. Native people camped along its shores. Nowadays, if you come at the right time, you can kayak in the shadow of a peak 11,331 feet above you to the west. Death Valley is truly a fascinating place with many surprises. It is a grand land of mystery and unique beauty.
BADWATER SNAILS: These endangered creatures live in Badwater Basin under the salt crust, and can easily and unwittingly be killed by visitors who step on the moist ground under the water. The snails feed on algae in the salt. Please watch where you walk!
BALLARAT: Named after an Australian gold rush camp of the 1850s, this town came into existence on the western side of the Panamint Range in 1897 to support the miners of Pleasant Canyon. By 1900, Ballarat was at its peak, supporting around 300 men working area mines. There were stage lines, a motel, school, bars, a post office, jail, and other trappings of success. Like all the rest of these boom towns, its moment of glory soon passed as ores played out and strikes were made elsewhere. The current population of Ballarat is "more or less" as posted on its sign. Seldom Seen Slim (Charles Ferge) used to live here until 1968 (the last real old timer). He is buried in Boot Hill nearby. Adobe walls still stand, and the jail is still here to witness. Ballarat is easily reached by any BEV, on a 3 mile class-1 dirt road, with 4wd rarely necessary, unless the alkali flat is flooded from heavy rains.
BARKER RANCH: This ranch was built by a retired LAPD officer, and later sold to some folks named Barker. It sits in a peaceful location, far removed from the hubbub of humanity, and would be known to hardly anyone, but for the occupants of the late 1960s, called the Manson family. The Barker Ranch was the site for the arrests of this infamous "family" over the course of three raids by law enforcement authorities from Los Angeles and Inyo Counties. If you can successfully navigate class-4 and 5 backroads, you too can spend some time here, along with the current residents (rabbits, packrats, mice, lizards, snakes, and birds). Barker Ranch is reached by a high clearance BEV, on 23 miles of class 1-5 dirt roads, with 4wd always necessary. Recent weather will determine whether less experienced drivers can make this trip.
BEATTY: Only about four miles from Rhyolite, Beatty, Nevada is on Highway 95, and is a good place to fuel your rig when exploring this area. It has overnight accommodations, and could make a good base camp area for meeting after a day's exploration. There are also medical facilities here. Not too far east of Beatty is the desert where the US Government used to blow up atom bombs during the 1950s and 1960s, exposing unsuspecting citizens living downwind to lethal doses of radiation.
BEDROCK: Generally referred to as the native rock that forms the foundation of a given geological region, finding bedrock in the sink of Death Valley is not possible for the average human being. Foremost among the reasons is the fact that bedrock lies approximately ten-thousand feet below the accumulated earthen debris that has as its top layer the Devil's Golf Course. So, fellow explorer, as you stand in Badwater Basin, you are standing on a lot of ground that didn't use to be there!
BENNETT-ARCAN GROUP: In January 1850, starving fortune seekers set up a makeshift camp on the salt flats of what was then called Salt Valley by some. After attempting to find a shortcut to the California gold fields, and realizing that they were not going to succeed, this small group sent two young men from their party, William Manly and John Rogers, to get help. Twenty six days later, the well-walked chaps returned with supplies and saved the day. Harry Wade and his family, loosely associated with the Bennett-Arcan group initially, set out on their own towards the south, feeling another route would better ensure their survival. They met with success also, but did so by keeping on the move. It was allegedly a person in the Bennett-Arcan group who said "Goodbye death valley", thereby unwittingly placing upon this land its cursed name for all time.
BIG FOUR MINE: Just over four miles east of Panamint Springs is the dirt road to the Big Four mine. After six miles of class 1-5 road, you'll find the remains of the War Eagle (another name for the mine). It was primarily a lead mine in the mid 1900s. The Panamint Dunes lie to the west of the mine, and you can see South Pass from this area also. The road to this mine is short, but it can be "experts only" in spots, so don't take any chances. Lake Hill is just off the road, and you can climb it to attain an additional height of 500 feet to survey the area. This area used to be underwater, as did much of Death Valley.
BIG HORN SHEEP: They're out here, but since they like remote places far from people, most folks will likely never see any. That's a great reason to explore as we like to do, on the backroads and trails. There are reportedly more than 500 sheep in the Park. Where are they? I've heard that they like mountains. Did someone say Willow Spring in the Gold Valley region? Word has it that the reason for eliminating the wild burro population in the Park is because the indigenous sheep are losing their food sources to the burro population.
BLACK MOUNTAINS: In the southern portion of the Park, the Black Mountains are home to several incredible sights, such as Dante's View, Twenty Mule Team Canyon, Natural Bridge, Artist's Palette, Gold Valley, and the Ashford mine. Badwater sits at the western foot of these mountains. They form the southern portion of the mighty Amargosa Range.
BOBCAT: I have a special relationship with this cat, having had the unique honor of a brief association with such a beautiful animal high in the Panamint Mountains. While camping at Mahogany Flat in the Juniper and Pinyon forest one autumn, a bobcat chose to keep me company that evening prior to heading off to sleep. I have attempted to put the chance meeting into words in the chapter, Trail to the Sky, yet this moving experience far exceeds that which I can write. You may have noticed the bobcat appearing on an introductory screen of this website - now you know why!
BORAX: Bringing in more money for entrepreneurs than all the other mining activities (gold, silver, lead, copper, etc.) combined, this prized salt is what really put the Death Valley territory on the map of common public awareness. It is what's left on the valley floor after eons of mineral evaporation in the scorching Summer heat, and the miners who sought precious metals completely overlooked its value. Humble, but useful, borax is what led to the operation of Death Valley's famous 20 mule team, and was what thousands of Americans used during the mid-twentieth century to wash their hands and clothing. William Coleman and Francis Smith are perhaps the two most well-known fellows who earned significant incomes through the mining of borax.
BORAX MUSEUM: This museum, at Furnace Creek, is a free attraction that exhibits mining machinery from the borax boom that occurred in this area during the late 1800s. The main building was an old boarding house for miners that was moved from Twenty Mule Team Canyon, a few miles to the south. Mining history buffs will certainly want to take a stroll through this museum. Some say that at today's prices, there still remains approximately one billion dollars worth of borax minerals in the area, but of course, it's all off-limits since this is now a National Park.
BRISTLECONE PINE: These trees are the oldest living entities on the planet Earth, and in these parts of California and Nevada, they can be found on the highest mountainsides. Generally you'll find them above 10,000 feet, which means for the Death Valley area, you will have to take a hike up the Telescope Peak trail if you want to see and photograph them. They are very twisted and weathered appearing, with quite a bit of character unique to each particular tree. The oldest ones, some of which date around 4,000 years, can be found in the White Mountains not far north of Death Valley, just to the east of Bishop, California, in the Patriarch Grove (also a great region to explore via 4x4). I have always found these trees exciting to discover, and they somehow bring me an odd sort of peace, perhaps due to their old age. I love being in their presence, as I do around Redwood and Sequoia trees.
BULLFROG HILLS: These mountains are in Nevada, partly within the National Park. Just north of Rhyolite, you'll find some interesting geological sights here, along with quite a few mine shafts due to the intense rags to riches dreams of the thousands who combed these hills looking for gold. Shorty Harris first found a green-stained ore on the side of Bullfrog Mountain in 1904, shouting, "Hellfire, Eddie, we've struck the richest jackpot this side of the Klondike." The towns of Bullfrog and Rhyolite soon followed, and Bob Montgomery became the first mining millionaire of the Death Valley region. The roads are mostly easy class 1-2, and can be driven by passenger cars.
BURROS: As artifacts of the 1800s mining activity, these cuddly looking animals remain plentiful in and around Death Valley National Park. They are wild (even though they appear tame), and seem to thrive in the canyonlands, usually viewable in canyons of the Panamint, Amargosa, and Last Chance Ranges, as well as in areas such as Lee Flat. Men hungry for instant gold riches used the animals to carry their burdens. I love to talk to the burros each time I come across one ... and they do listen, perking their ears my direction and looking at me with their sad little eyes. Ya gotta' luv em! In the "Burro Flapjack Race" of yore in Death Valley, the participants had to catch a wild burro, put a pack on it, lead it one hundred yards, fix some flapjacks, and feed the burro. The record was around three minutes.
BUTTE VALLEY: Secluded and wild, the Butte Valley area is home to the magnificent Striped Butte, picturesque Geologist's Cabin, and rustic Russell Camp. You can get here the easy way or the hard way. Easy (relatively speaking of course, depending on your backroad experience) is coming up the Warm Spring Canyon road from Death Valley. Hard is coming up the sometimes-wicked Goler Canyon and over challenging Mengel Pass (pay your respects to prospector Carl Mengel at his gravesite on top as you go by). A German tourist family of four reportedly met their demise in this valley a few years ago, and have never been found. It is still a mystery.
BUTTE VALLEY OVERLOOK: If you wish to see Butte Valley as would an eagle, travel the Pleasant Canyon road east from Panamint Valley to Roger's Pass, turn south along the ridge, drive about five miles to a huge open area, and gaze straight down to the southeast. It's quite a view, especially later in the afternoon when shadows play upon the landscape. This overlook area is essentially due east from where South Park Canyon road travels across South Park. You may never find this spot, but it's fun trying, and the ridge drive is spectacular.
BUTTERFLIES: Along with wildflowers, butterflies appear each spring to signal the emergence of springtime in the desert and mountains. During April in particular, you can see thousands of them here and there in areas awash with newly sprouted wildflowers. I have found myself driving in such flourishing clusters of butterflies that it required a reduction in speed to avoid harming them, as happened one April in the upper reaches of Emigrant Canyon on the Wildrose road.
CAMPGROUNDS: Within the National Park, there are ten campgrounds, from 196 feet below sea level to 8,133 feet above, from modernized to primitive, and from fee to free. If I stay in one, I prefer the free primitive locations because there usually aren't many (if any) people there. The most popular campgrounds are Furnace Creek, Sunset, Texas Spring, and Stovepipe Wells because they are in the main tourist areas of Furnace Creek and Stovepipe Wells, and accessible by standard automobiles. Up by Scotty's Castle is Mesquite Springs, at 1800 feet elevation. On the fringes, you'll find Emigrant Campground at the intersection of Emigrant Canyon road and Highway 190. Farther south, on the Wildrose Road to the Charcoal Kilns, you'll find Wildrose, Thorndike, and Mahogany Flat Campgrounds, at increasingly higher elevations of 4100, 7400, and 8133 feet respectively. These are the coolest camps for hotter months because they are in the Panamint Mountains. There is one more that few will ever use, called Homestake, at the south end of The Racetrack Valley near the Lippencott Mine. You should have a 4wd BEV if you plan on staying at Mahogany Flat, or possibly Thorndike depending on the weather.
CDPA: The California Desert Protection Act, signed into law in 1994, really changed the human-imposed borders in the Death Valley region. Since 1933, this area had been a National Monument consisting of roughly 2.1 million acres. The CDPA upgraded the status of the monument to a National Park, and increased the area to 3.4 million acres, about 96 percent of which is designated as non-vehicular wilderness. Several wilderness areas outside the Park were also created to preserve the land in its untouched state. Of course, these size increases still seem relatively small when compared to the neighboring restricted acreage controlled by the military.
CERRO GORDO: This mining area sits high in the Inyo Mountains, about halfway as the crow flies between the south end of The Racetrack and the little village of Keeler. Silver and lead ores are what put Cerro Gordo on the map. The prospector who really got the mining boom going here, named it Fat Hill, or Cerro Gordo in Spanish. The small mountain town prospered for about ten years from 1866 to the late seventies, then went quiet for a few years before experiencing a second boom in the early 1900s. The roads to Cerro Gordo come in from several areas, and are difficult enough here and there to make it an area that is best explored by more experienced backcountry folks, as 4wd is necessary. The high crest of the Inyo Mountains is a great drive, with views into the Owens Valley to the west and the Saline Valley to the east. You'll also discover tram lines up here that used to haul minerals up and down the mountain on both sides.
CHARCOAL KILNS: In order to fuel ore furnaces in the Argus Range to the west, the Modock Consolidated Mining Company (owned by George Hearst) built 10 kilns in the forested Panamint Mountains in 1877 (see Lookout Mountain entry below). These stone edifices sit below Wildrose Peak, and are each 25 feet high and 30 feet in diameter, and held 42 cords of Pinyon tree wood. The kilns produced 2,000 bushels of charcoal after a week of burning. Of course, cutting down all the Pinyon trees in the area to supply the kilns must have altered the scenery quite a bit back then. The Charcoal Kilns are easily reached by any BEV or auto, on mostly pavement with some class-1 dirt road, with 4wd rarely necessary. When you walk inside these structures, you can still smell the burned wood.
CHLORIDE CITY GHOST TOWN: The Chloride Cliff mine, north of Furnace Creek and just above the Keane Wonder mine, was the reason that this city was laid out, as enthusiasts believed that an influx of miners and businesses to the area would surely warrant it. People did live here in this gold and silver region during the late 1800s and early 1900s, but like all the other dreams, Chloride too faded quickly. Chloride City is easily reached by any BEV, on a 7 mile class 1-3 dirt road, with 4wd sometimes necessary. The road to this area is very fun to drive, and once in the city vicinity, you'll find two-track 4wd roads heading over every hill in all directions. If you enjoy a lot of exploring in a relatively compact area with great views, this is your place! There are mines everywhere.
CHLORIDE CLIFF: On the southern flank of the Chloride City township, one of the roads continues up very high onto the mountainsides, and eventually ends quite dramatically at Chloride Cliff, with absolutely spectacular views of Death Valley and the surrounding territory. This is well worth the drive, both for the view and for the solitude away from the crowds! There is fine primitive camping all about this area. The road is mostly class 2-3, but the final few yards to the summit of the cliff is off limits to all but the most experienced backroad driver with an extremely capable vehicle. I would recommend walking the final few yards to the top, both to save the land from further damage and to eliminate any potential for your demise should you make a driving miscalculation.
CLAIR CAMP: Up Pleasant Canyon six miles is this fairly well preserved mining camp, which served the Ratcliff Mine on the mountain above it. It was going strong in the late 1800s and very early 1900s, and apparently produced a lot of wealth for a very few, including Henry Ratcliff. Later, Mr. Clair bought the operation, and produced gold and other ore through the late 1940s. There is a lot to see here if you enjoy exploring old mining history, but take care around the mines and shafts, for there are no safeguards, and you could get yourself killed if not vigilant. I've heard that rattlesnakes like dark cool places during the day (like old buildings and mines).
CONFIDENCE HILLS: Running alongside the northeastern edge of the Owlshead Mountains, the Confidence Hills are best viewed when traveling south from the Ashford Mill on the Harry Wade road to the Confidence Millsite. At the eastern edge of these hills, the ground still dips below sea level in a thin strip that extends from Death Valley to almost where the Amargosa River crosses the Harry Wade road. Several canyons drain through the Confidence Hills from the Owlshead Mountains (Talc, Owlshead, Contact, Granite, and Through).
COPPER: This reddish colored metal, which has excellent electrical conductivity, has been used for thousands of years in many ways. Some reports many years ago claimed that certain areas of the Death Valley territory were so rich in copper that any sufficiently motivated person could stake a claim and make a fortune. Places like Furnace, Greenwater, Kunze, Copperfield, and the Ubehebe mines drew extreme interest for a short while, and also drained many unsuspecting risk-takers of their investment money. As far as copper mining was concerned, this land of legend was a bust, but, like any legendary aura about a region, it all fell into the mix and caused even more mystery!
CORRIDOR CANYON: Want to hike somewhere that you'll swear has never been visited by humans? Are you in outstanding physical condition? About six miles southwest of Teakettle Junction, on a short sideroad, you'll find the Ubehebe Mine, which is where to park to experience the difficult and extremely isolated hike to Corridor Canyon, due west in the Last Chance Range. After about three miles of walking, you'll come to the reason for this hike, a place called The Corridor, a spectacular and narrow passageway through impressive rock. This is the epitome of isolation, if that is what you seek.
COSO RANGE: West of the Argus Range lies the Coso Range, mountains that nowadays are pretty much inaccessible. Most of the range is within the China Lake Naval Weapons Center, and the rest is protected for hiking only in the Coso Range Wilderness Area. Quite a bit of mining activity took place in this region at one time.
COTTONWOOD CANYON: West of Stovepipe Wells, this canyon is a popular four wheel drive route into the Cottonwood Mountains. There are steep rock walls in the canyon, with springs and Cottonwood trees near the end of the road. A huge cave is found deep within the canyon, and bighorn sheep are sometimes spotted farther up. This backroad provides varied levels of challenge, and most backroaders generally find it quite fun to drive. Cottonwood Canyon is traveled by many BEVs, on 20 miles of class 1-4 dirt roads, with 4wd often necessary. Old prospector Jean LeMoigne's remains are said to be buried up near the end of this canyon, but you have to know where to look for the grave marking.
COTTONWOOD MOUNTAINS: These mountains lie in the northern section of the Panamint Range, running from Ubehebe Crater in the north, to the region of Panamint Butte to the south. The isolated Hidden Valley sits at their western edge, and remote road to White Top Mountain winds through them to reveal nice views of Death Valley to the southeast.
CRANKSHAFT CROSSING: In the far northern reaches of the Park, this junction of two roads is rarely visited, even though the roadbeds are class-1. Death Valley Road, which heads north from the road to Ubehebe Crater, has a fork about twenty miles beyond the pavement, near Last Chance Spring. The right fork heads into the Lida Valley region of Nevada. This fork is called Crankshaft Crossing. Today, you'll find quite a few rusted automobile crankshafts artistically arranged on the sign and surrounding ground. An old engine block or two may grace your vision also. If you enjoy quaint crossings and junctions like this, you'll also have to visit Teakettle Junction to the south!
CREATURES (potentially hazardous): Yep, they are out here all right, but usually you'll not see them (but they can see you). Just off the top of my head (where I don't want them), I can think of a few, such as: scorpions, rattlesnakes, black widow spiders, bees, wasps, and mountain lions. Just watch where you're walking, don't go inside old buildings or mines, and if you sit down on a rock for lunch make sure nothing else happens to be sitting nearby also. In my whole life, I've only seen one rattlesnake (a little green baby one), a couple of scorpions, a tarantula, a fly or two, and no mountain lions. Usually, these critters will avoid you like the plague. Just be aware of your actions and location at all times (if you're not too busy gawking at the awesome scenery).
CUCOMUNGO CANYON: Forming a portion of the extreme northeast boundary line of Death Valley National Park is Cucomungo Canyon. Few typical tourists venture out this far because it requires all dirt roads to access, although the roadbeds are generally class-1, with a few portions of more difficult terrain, particularly if a weather event has altered things. The northern wall of the canyon is pretty spectacular in its dramatic granite rise from the wash, and can be seen for many miles when approaching from the south on the Eureka Valley road. If you want to access the Park from an extreme entrance, come here and be one of the few to see this dramatic natural formation that caps the northern most corner of DVNP. The road exits the canyon in the state of Nevada. The Sylvania Mountains Wilderness Area immediately borders the canyon to the north. See Entrances (opposite ends) below.
DANTE'S VIEW: At 5,475 feet above sea level in the Black Mountains of the Amargosa Range (5,757 feet above Badwater just below), this is the view that everyone wants to see, for it is spectacular. The borax and railroad men, eager to be the recipients of the new flow of tourist dollars, developed a road to this summit in 1929. This enviable tourist spot is what prompted rival promoter Bob Eichbaum, of Stovepipe Wells fame, to build his famous road in the Panamint Range on the western side of Death Valley (known as Aguereberry Point today). Dante's View is easily reached by most vehicles, on paved roads, in 2wd, but the road is steep and narrow. Motorhomes must park a ways below the summit, leaving the occupants to walk up the rest of the way, huffing and puffing.
DARWIN FALLS: Just a stone's throw west of Panamint Springs (one mile of pavement and two and a half miles of class-1 dirt) is the trailhead for these hidden pristine falls. You have to walk the last mile, but it is sure worth it to see lush waterfalls in this often-dry region! The first fall you encounter is the lowest of a group of nine falls. If you are in for hiking another half mile in rough terrain, you can climb to see the remaining eight. While in the area, you can also visit the old mining town of Darwin, which still boasts a living population and a post office. The town was named after Dr. Darwin French, who led an expedition through the region in 1860 looking for the mythical Gunsight silver mine. The Darwin Falls trailhead is easily reached by any BEV, on a 3 mile class-1 dirt road, with 4wd rarely necessary. A mile hike is required from the trailhead.
DAYLIGHT PASS: At 4,317 feet elevation, this pass must be crossed when traveling from the valley floor to the entrance of Titus Canyon or on to Rhyolite. It is a paved road that becomes signed as Highway 374 once in Nevada. Daylight pass lies within the Park boundary, and is only about a mile east of the California state line. If you're coming from the California side, you've also passed through Hell's Gate to get here (bet you didn't know that)! See the Hell's Gate entry to read my speculation on how it got that name. The road is a steady climb from Stovepipe, with the dunes, Cottonwood Mountains, and Tucki Mountain visible in your rearview mirror.
DEAD HORSE CANYON: Well, you won't be driving in here, but if you're physically fit, love to hike, and have plenty of water, it makes for a great hike to some petroglyphs (if you can find them). This is a hiker's canyon, and very remote if you want to get away from casual strollers. Take the Cottonwood Canyon dirt road west from Stovepipe Wells, turn off at Marble Canyon, hike about three miles, and you'll find Dead Horse Canyon. Like I say, you won't be seeing many folks in here (and hopefully you won't be seeing any dead horses either).
DEADMAN PASS: Originally on a wagon freight road for supplies being brought into the town of Greenwater from the railroad near Death Valley Junction, this remote pass in the Greenwater Range is on one of the loneliest backroads in the Park. The elevation of the pass is 3,263 feet above sea level as it runs through the Greenwater Range, and is generally quite an easy backroad drive. The dead fellow can no longer be found up here, so he was either buried, has decomposed, or was a myth right from the start. Deadman Pass is easily traversed by any BEV, on a 14 mile class 1-3 dirt road, with 4wd sometimes necessary. If you get going too fast on this road, like 30 mph for instance, an unseen gully can toss your rig into the air for that whoop-de-do feeling. If you're heading north on Highway 127 from Shoshone, looking for this easily missed road, it's right across the street from Eagle Mountain.
DEATH MONIKER: The lure of easy riches had a lot to do with the morbid name of this National Park. In the mid 1800s, a group of wealth seekers were in quest of a shortcut to the gold fields of California. Well, they left their group and went searching (against the wise advice of their leader). Becoming stranded, they camped for weeks on the valley floor as two young men of their party successfully went for supplies. One person died. After they had left the inhospitable region of the salt flat, and were in the refreshing Panamint Mountains to the west, a member of their party reportedly looked back and said, "Good-bye death valley." And so that's the legend. Other people, who trace their roots in the valley back some 10,000 years, call it something else! The Timbisha Shoshone refer to the area as the "Valley of Life" because they knew how to successfully adapt to the conditions. Hence, it's all a matter of perception.
DEATH VALLEY: Not to be confused with Death Valley National Park, Death Valley refers to the valley itself, which lies between the Panamint and Amargosa Ranges. It's roughly 80 miles long (depending on how one defines it) by an average 8 miles in width. In keeping with the nomenclature of this "deathly" area, it gets hotter than hell in the valley in the summer (some folks say that the Devil's Golf Course is the biblical roof of hell), and officially is the second hottest place on Earth, recorded at 134 degrees Fahrenheit in 1913. Keep in mind however, that the reading was taken in the shade, and since that recording wasn't at the hottest point near Badwater, which is usually four degrees higher, Death Valley may have reached at least 138 (higher than the Al' Aziziyah, Libya recording of 136). According to some accounts from the late 1800s and early 1900s, numbers as high as the 140s in the shade have occurred here (one account even records 150). Famous western author Zane Grey once proclaimed that Death Valley would "never be popular with men" and would be "fatal to women."
DEATH VALLEY BACKCOUNTRY ROADS MAP: In 2006, the National Park Service introduced a new backroad map that is worthy of your consideration if you travel the more than 1300 miles of backcountry roads in the Death Valley territory. It shows most of the roads within the Park boundaries, and only a few of the backroads in the immediate adjacent lands. Generally, it does a fairly good job of identifying hazardous roadbeds, with the most notable exception being treacherous South Park Canyon. The type is rather tiny, but in strong light, even the more sight-challenged folks might be able to read it. The 3D graphic of the mountains, upon which the printing and roadbeds are placed, seems to be offset horizontally to the left by about a half inch of where it should be, so keep that in mind when you wonder if the road is actually in a valley or running across mountainsides. Overall though, I recommend the map if you don't feel like shelling out about nine bucks for Tom Harrison's map (see the "Map" entry for more map info).
DEATH VALLEY NATIONAL MONUMENT: On Wednesday, February 11, 1933, Herbert Hoover, the President of the United States, issued a proclamation establishing the Death Valley territory as a National Monument. Within the document are found these words: "Warning is hereby expressly given to all unauthorized persons not to appropriate, injure, destroy, or remove any feature of this monument and not to locate or settle upon any of the lands thereof." Mr. Hoover further put the care of this new monument into the hands of the National Park Service, that was established in 1916. The original boundaries encompassed about 1,601,800 acres in eastern California. Looking at the Department of the Interior map, one will notice that this monument did not extend into Nevada at that time.
DEATH VALLEY NATIONAL PARK (DVNP): Not to be confused with Death Valley, this Park contains the valley, and was conferred this status in 1994, having been a National Monument from 1933 up until that time. Its 3.4 million acres are primarily wilderness designation, meaning that to see most of it, you'll have to be a hiker of unbelievable endurance, intelligence, and a little luck. This place is big, really big, and the distances are terribly deceiving. That is why I recommend a BEV for travel out here, one that is in top notch condition so that you will not be stranded anywhere. Do not venture out here thinking that just because it is a National Park, you will always be safe from harm and easily rescued by a convenient Ranger. Death Valley National Park remains one of the most wild Parks in this country, and if you travel the roads not taken as discussed in this book, you'll be even more remote from assistance than the average pavement-only traveler. People have died trying to walk out from a broken down BEV. But with common sense, reasonable prudence, and immaculate preparation, your visit here should prove a mighty fine experience if you like remote and lonely places.
DEATH VALLEY NATURAL HISTORY ASSOCIATION: The DVNHA is a nonprofit organization whose mission is to assist the public with understanding this territory. One big way these folks do this is through their quality bookstore at the Furnace Creek Visitor's Center. I purchase books through them so that my money recycles into the greater good of the region. You may join with a membership fee if you wish to support this worthy cause. http://www.dvnha.org
DEATH VALLEY RANCH: This was a vacation home for Albert and Bessie Johnson from Chicago. Albert was fascinated by the lore and lure of the land, and built this fabulous mansion so he could visit whenever he wanted. The climate apparently helped his somewhat fragile health. You can visit the Johnson Ranch today, taking a tour where you are led to believe you are back in 1939. It is well worth the experience (except for the gasoline prices if you happen to need to fill up your tank before venturing out into the backcountry). Walter Scott lived here more than the Johnson's, telling everyone that it was his ranch on top of his gold mine. Albert got such a kick out of Scott's wild fabrications that he just let Scott have the glory. They were great friends to the end by all accounts. If you love huge pipe organs, you just have to take the tour, for this sound system will rock your senses! And the kitchen is every chef's dream.
DEATH VALLEY TERRITORY: According to my personal definition, which is less precise than governmental boundaries that enclose the National Park, this is the region that encompasses Death Valley National Park and the immediate neighboring countryside. It includes such areas as the Panamint Valley (west of the Park), the eastern slope of the Argus Range (west of the Panamint Valley), the town of Darwin and the surrounding mountains, the Inyo Mountains (part of the western Park boundary), the northern Eureka Valley (northern boundary), the Tule Canyon - Oriental Wash - Gold Mountain region in Nevada (northeastern side of Park), Sarcobatus Flat in Nevada (a known good landing site for aliens), the Amargosa Desert south of Beatty, Nevada, the country west of Death Valley Junction, the area between the little town of Shoshone and Dumont Dunes, and the wilderness areas that touch the National Park on all its sides. That's a lot of wild country, and there are just over 1300 miles of primitive dirt backroads to be explored in this vast territory! So, what are you waiting for partner?
DEATH VALLEY WASH: Okay, this has to be the longest wash in the territory, as far as I can tell. Starting up by Last Chance Canyon, east of Crankshaft Crossing, this wash travels south for roughly fifty miles to Mesquite Flat, northwest of Stovepipe Wells Sand Dunes. It pretty much parallels the dirt Big Pine-Death Valley road and then the paved road from Ubehebe Crater to Stovepipe Wells. If you ever were to entertain the notion of hiking Death Valley's length, you would likely use this wash for your northern half of the hike if you prefer to stay away from paved road traffic.
DEDECKERA CANYON: If you want solitude, take a drive through here! This remote canyon, with its high rock walls and narrows, is not far south of the Eureka Sand Dunes National Natural Landmark, in the north end of the Park. It was named after Mary DeDecker, who discovered a particular plant in the area. The Last Chance Range surrounds this incredible place. The canyon resulted from erosion through the fault zone. Ancient marine sediments exist here, but would require and expert to find. Do not attempt this canyon road unless you are an experienced backroad driver with a suitable vehicle. Dedeckera Canyon is traversed by high clearance BEVs, on many miles of class 1-5 dirt roads, with 4wd always necessary. This is no place to break down, especially if you're alone. Although, if you have to go, this is as good a place as any to depart, and I'd rather do so out here in nature's magnificent glory than in some huge concrete metropolitan city.
DEHYDRATION: More dangerous than other perceived dangers like wild animals, loosing water has always been one of the prime reasons for deaths in the region. Since the humidity is so very low, your body's moisture evaporates at a dangerously high rate. Mid summer in Death valley, you can lose a couple of gallons of water in a day just sitting in the shade! Always carry at least one gallon of water per day per person in your vehicle. Double that if you are going to be doing some hiking! As many of the 49ers seeking a shortcut through Death Valley to the California goldfields learned, water can be far more precious than gold and silver! Don't learn this the hard way please.
DEVIL'S GOLF COURSE: Golfing here would be ill-advised, hard on the feet, ruinous to the clubs, and would result in every ball being lost. The area is the result of mineral deposition from eons of water evaporation. Basically, this 200 square mile region in the sink of Death Valley is crystallized salt, which you can verify by placing your tongue on it. You'll also likely witness salt pools in the low spots. In the event that you're really into golf, play at Furnace Creek's grass course, at 190 feet below sea level, which is not far away from this salty course. A number of folks have believed that this place is the actual roof of the hell, so perhaps there is a secret passage through which its caretaker passes when he decides to play a few holes.
DEVIL'S HOLE: Good luck finding this place! Few would imagine that so much water could exist in a land that is thought of as waterless by most people. Who would suspect that Death Valley sits atop one of the largest aquifers in the United States that spans about 40,000 square miles, has been explored to a depth of 400 feet with no bottom in sight, and is home to the endangered Pup Fish? The Hole is off limits to most, and is not even within the normal boundary of what we consider DVNP to be. Northeast of Death Valley Junction in Nevada, you'll find the Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge, and within those boundaries is the tiny portion of Death Valley National Park that protects Devil's Hole. I have seen video footage of scuba divers in there, and it is quite spectacular.
DRY BONE CANYON: For those of you who want to hike one of the most remote and rarely visited canyons in the Park, try Dry Bone. It is reached via the primitive White Top Mountain road from the northeastern edge of Hidden Valley. In this extremely secluded high-walled gorge, you will find slanted rock walls, many fascinating dryfalls, petroglyphs, and even a few ram's skulls and bones. Michel Digonnet, author of Hiking Death Valley, believes that bighorn sheep may come here to die, and that native petroglyphs depict this phenomenon. Since the upper canyon elevations vary between 4,000 to 6,000 feet, the temperature should be comfortable even in warmer months. For road info, see The Racetrack, Teakettle Junction, Lost Burro Gap, White Top Mountain entries.
DUMONT DUNES: These dunes southeast of the Park are a favorite recreation area for tons of people, so don't come here if you seek honest-to-goodness solitude. These dunes are classified as an open-use area for off road vehicles by the Bureau of Land Management, so you can camp, drive, and collect rocks to your heart's delight. It is kind of like a huge playground for adults. Motor Trend magazine sometimes comes here to evaluate their test vehicles when determining their Sport Utility of the Year award winner. Fine sands from the ancient lake that once covered Death Valley were blown to this area and accumulated, hence this modern-day recreation mecca. You are likely to see motorhomes camping out here, and dune buggies, motorcycles, ATVs, and all sorts of modified 4wd vehicles roaming the sand at will.
DUST STORM: Every once in a while when the weather conditions are just right, you'll see one of these racing across the sink of Death Valley. Hopefully, you'll be in a comfortable location where taking photos is an option. However, if a powerful wind happens to choose the very place you happen to be, and you find yourself encased within a large blanket of dirt with no easy escape, face your vehicle away from the wind, close the windows, and shut off the engine until it goes away. Driving through one of these will do your engine no good, sucking in dirt big-time. If you're hiking, the best you can hope for is to sit down, back to the blast, and wait it out. Make sure your camera is secured in a suitable container.
EAGLE BORAX WORKS: Isadore Daunet came from France, eventually seeking his fortune in the form of Borax. In the hottest place of America, he started the borax company. He was making a lot of money for a small operation, but summer heat forced him to shut down until fall. Once he began production again, borax prices had fallen, his wife had divorced him, and wealthy entrepreneur William Coleman had opened the much-bigger Harmony Borax Works to the north. It was too much for Isadore to emotionally handle, so he chose to take his life.
EAGLE MOUNTAIN: This huge monolith on the east side of Highway 127 north of Shoshone is a good landmark for locating the Deadman Pass road, which can be difficult to find if you're driving 55 miles per hour. At an elevation of 3,806 feet, it can't be missed. If you are looking for the two-track Deadman Pass road, you'll find it just over 17 miles north of the small village of Shoshone. Go slow (15 mph), for it's really easy to miss in an obscure sandwash.
ECHO CANYON: Located just south of Furnace Creek, this canyon provided road access to the mining operations of Schwab, Lee, and Inyo in the Funeral Mountains. Less than 5 miles from the pavement, you'll notice a huge needle-like hole in a rock wall, called Eye of the Needle. This is a popular class 2 backroad that is fun and easy to drive and explore, and it is only a stone's throw from the Furnace Creek visitor center. Far up the canyon, a side road to the left heads up and out of the canyon and over Echo Pass, eventually ending up in Nevada's Amargosa Valley, but only very experienced drivers with appropriate BEVs should make that turn due to a series of three dryfalls that are class 4 and 5. However, if you want to see the falls, you can travel class 2-3 road to them, and then turn around. If you stay in Echo Canyon, the road dead-ends a ways beyond the Inyo Mine. Echo Canyon is easily reached by any BEV, on a 9 mile class 2 dirt road, with 4wd sometimes necessary.
ECHO PASS: This road not taken is not taken for a reason. It leads from the Nevada region known as Amargosa Valley, over the Funeral Range, and down into Echo Canyon. It is one of twenty-eight backroad entrances to the Park, but one that only highly experienced drivers in able BEVs dare make due to the short section of class 4-5 road hidden in a tight spot. It's not for the faint of heart, but great adventure for the seasoned backroad explorer! Want to see if your rig lives up to all the marketing hype that accompanied it on the television and radio? Come here. You'll find out soon enough!
EMIGRANT CANYON: As its name implies, early emigrants headed this way on their way out of Death Valley. South of Stovepipe Wells, Emigrant Canyon today is sometimes filled with wildflowers in the spring if the weather has worked out just right. Today's travel on pavement makes touring this canyon easy and enjoyable. During the spring months, a multitude of butterflies are doing whatever butterflies do in this area, and seem a nice contrast to some of the more harsh areas. Yes, life does do well out here.
EMIGRANT PASS: The crest of Emigrant Canyon is 5,318 foot Emigrant Pass. This is a beautiful and isolated stretch of road taken by the more adventurous sedan-driving tourist. At the pass, Wood Canyon cuts off to the east, and allows 4wd access higher in the Panamint Range for a little over three miles. Eight miles south of the pass, you'll drop into Wildrose Canyon, home of the famous Charcoal Kilns.
ENTRANCES (paved): There are six paved road entrances into Death Valley National Park. Starting from the south, Highway 178 comes in from the small town of Shoshone, runs north through Furnace Creek, west through Stove Pipe Wells, south through Wildrose Canyon, and exits on the west side on the way to Trona (two entrances on the one road). The next is Highway 190 that comes in on the east side from Death Valley Junction, through Furnace Creek (where it joins 178 for a while), west through Stovepipe Wells, south over Towne Pass, west through Panamint Springs, and on in to the town of Olancha (two more entrances on one road). Now we're up to four. The next paved entrance is Nevada Highway 374 from Beatty, that comes in from the east, past the road to Titus Canyon, and then over Daylight Pass, where it joins up to the road that connects Stovepipe Wells to Scotty's Castle. It doesn't exit somewhere else like the first two highways. Paved entrance number six is Nevada Highway 267, coming in from the east off of Nevada Highway 95, across Sarcobatus Flat to Scotty's Castle.
ENTRANCES (unpaved): Well, according to my observations, there are 28 unpaved road entrances into Death Valley National Park, some of which only go a short way in, others of which lead to just about anywhere in the interior you wish to visit. When I spend a few days out here, I usually make my way in on one of these little-known secret roads because it's just a whole lot more fun. Most tourists will never know the joy of scraping the underside of their vehicles on boulders as they enter on the best roads in the region! Not all maps show all roads. Some of the unpaved entrances are very easy driving, and others can be a nightmare for the inexperienced backcountry explorer. Get Tom Harrison's map of Death Valley for the most complete showing (although he left out South Park Canyon as a through entrance). Every map you reference will show differences on the dirt backroads, and the only means to hit them all (if you're so inclined) is to cross-reference at least three different detailed maps of the area.
ENTRANCES (opposite ends): Want to say that you've entered the Park in a vehicle at the northern most point of entry and the southern most point of entry? Okay then, here are the places to go. The northern most entry varies depending upon which map you use. For example, the AAA map (a very good one, by the way), shows the northern honor going to a road entering from Nevada, in Cucomungo Canyon, at the northern most tip of the Park boundary. However, Tom Harrison's map (which is more complete in many ways) shows the honor going to the North Eureka Valley Road in California, which comes out of Cucomungo Canyon to the west, and slightly south, of other road by about 5 miles. The NPS map supports Tom's map. Guess you'll just have to go exploring to find out for sure, but bring lots of fuel! The southern-most entry is easier, but is shared by two roads. Both roads exit Highway 127 on the Saratoga Spring Road, with the first way to enter being the short road to Saratoga Spring, with a second entry coming just 1.5 miles westerly as you head toward the Harry Wade road. Both entryways are at the same latitude, so both qualify. All four of these roads are, by the way, the best kind: dirt, of course! You'll need a BEV to be safe. Pavement drivers will never see these places!
ENTRANCES (state line): There are several road entrances into Death Valley National Park that allow you to enter from the state of Nevada in your four wheel drive vehicle. To the best of my knowledge, there are twelve dirt state line entrances that actually traverse the boundary line. There are three other dirt roads that come up to the line and stop, and there are two paved state line entrances that anyone can drive. Of course, all these roads are on the eastern side of the Park because that happens to be where they put Nevada way back when. One of these roads, to Lee's Camp and over Echo Pass, requires class-5 driving ability, but most of the others can be done by normal people in less-capable 4wd rigs. Except for the two paved state line entrances, the others are truly the epitome of remote exploration, such as Indian Pass.
EPSOM SALT MONORAIL: In 1919, Thomas Wright discovered a rich lode of magnesium sulfate, commonly known as epsom salt, in an area near Wingate Wash. This man, who operated a flower shop in Los Angeles, was a grand dreamer, and constructed a monorail to bring the salts to market. Six miles south of Trona, California, he began his rail construction in 1922. It was a 28 mile route across Searles Dry Lake, the Slate Range, and through Wingate Wash. This wild idea was so widely publicized that investors sank much money into it. Bottom line was that despite the best efforts and years of trying to make it pay, the entire venture ultimately failed in 1927, and the monorail fell to the history books, while Wright returned to selling flowers.
EROSION: If you love the Death Valley territory, you love erosion! Erosion is the displacement of land, thanks to gravity, often from a higher elevation to a lower elevation, caused by such things as water, ice, or wind. Without erosive forces continually at work, you wouldn't have Mosaic Canyon to hike through, Titus Canyon to drive through, Mushroom Rock to look at, Eureka Sand Dunes to climb upon, alluvial fans to gaze upon, or the rugged Panamint and Amargosa Ranges to explore. Just don't get in the way when erosion is occurring at a fast pace, such as a flash flood coming down one of the canyons ... if you do, you may well end up as a permanent ingredient to the sediment in the Death Valley territory! Come to think of it though, what a way to end up, huh? Part of nature in a very real sense!
EUREKA MINE: On the road to Aguereberry Point, this old mining camp still has some interesting structures to see. Pete Aguereberry mined the area until his death, hoping to strike it rich, but apparently never realizing his ultimate dream of wealth. The main mine structure is on the south side of a hill, requiring you to drive around on a short sideroad from the Aguereberry Point road. It is an easy class-2 road, and worth a few minutes inspection if you're headed to the spectacular Aguereberry overlook.
EUREKA SAND DUNES: The singing dunes sometimes can be heard when conditions of humidity and wind are just right. They are a National Natural Landmark, nearly 700 feet to their highest point. Depending upon where you read, they are the highest dunes in California, the United States, or the Western Hemisphere. The enchanting Last Chance Range borders the dunes on the east. Easy access via a very washboardy road is from the north, or 4wd access is from the south through Dedeckera Canyon. If you insist on solitude, place these dunes on your top-ten list. Depending on how you approach, the Eureka Sand Dunes can be reached either by standard 2wd vehicle (from the north) or by a high clearance 4wd BEV (from the south).
EYE OF THE NEEDLE: This is a very large rock formation in Echo Canyon that has a vertical slit about twelve feet long, looking like the eye of a needle. Many folks visit this relatively easy locale for great sunset and sunrise photos when the rays come through the eye. The photo near the top of this page shows the Eye in late afternoon. It is class 2-3 driving off the highway not far south of the Furnace Creek resorts.
FALL CANYON: Just the next canyon north of Titus Canyon, hiking is the only way in or out. The majestic red rock walls and narrows make this a must-see for fit hikers. If you enjoy Titus Canyon, multiply the feeling by a factor of two or three, park your car at the exit of Titus, and hike on in to Fall Canyon. Crowds are not a problem in here. Fall Canyon is easily reached by any vehicle, on a 3 mile class-1 dirt road, in 2wd. From the trailhead, the hike begins.
FAULT LINES: About 140 miles long (northwest to southeast roughly), Death Valley resulted from two fault block mountain ranges that thrust up over the eons. The Panamint Range lies to the west, and the Amargosa Range to the east. There is a fault line that runs along the western edge of each range, which caused the eastern side of the ranges to rise, thus creating the valley (or perhaps more technically, a graben) in between. The lowest point in North America sits between the ranges ... at -282 feet, Badwater is below the highest place in the Park, Telescope Peak, which is 11,331 feet higher and only 15 miles distant. The Death Valley floor is about 10,000 feet above solid bedrock, the void filled by an unimaginable volume of erosion debris. There are numerous other faults running throughout the region.
FILM INDUSTRY: Seems like once someone begins making money in a particular area, others soon follow, and with Death Valley so full of frightening and well publicized legend, the public was primed and willing to pay to see a little bit of it themselves. Nine years after the turn of the twentieth century, the Pacific Coast Borax Company filmed a commercial here, which was ultimately viewed by millions. One studio shot a movie called "Death Valley Scotty's Mine" in 1912, about the time that Walter Scott was shown to be just a conman, but since they didn't really film the movie in Death Valley, I suppose it serves them right. In 1915, some scenes from the movie "Life's Whirlwind" was actually filmed in Death Valley, but to top it all off, one producer ventured there in August 1923 with his crew and actors to shoot "Greed" on the salt flats! He wanted the actors to know the hardships associated with such heat and dryness, and hoped that by filming in such challenging conditions, the reality would come across on the big screen. His group remained there for six weeks, enduring heat peaks recorded at 132 degrees Fahrenheit in the shade, but the producer claimed a high of 142 degrees. Other movies include the 1924 film "Wanderer of the Wasteland" based on Zane Grey's portrayal, and a western revolving around Rhyolite called "The Air Mail".
FIRST PEOPLE: During a history of roughly ten-thousand years, according to modern researchers, people have inhabited the Death Valley region. These bands of inhabitants included the Northern Piute, Shoshone, Kawaiisu, and Southern Piute. Pine nuts from the Pinyon trees, found in the higher elevations, provided a vital food source for them, along with mesquite beans. Small animals also found themselves ending up as food. The method of barter used had as its foundation a string of beads wrapped around the hand. Even a wife could be purchased with enough beads. Some of these first people eventually found themselves in conflict with the mid nineteenth century mining concerns, but many chose to adapt with the changing times, as they had to do with the changing environmental conditions over the years prior to the coming of white businesses. Some of these people continue to this day in this area.
FLASH FLOOD: Look around at all these magnificent canyons and all the incredible hiking they provide. Ever wonder how they got so narrow and photogenic? Ever wonder what causes those expansive alluvial fans that spread from the mouth of each canyon? Well, it must have taken some pretty powerful event to do it. Water is the answer. It could be raining heavily up in the mountains as you're hiking a canyon down below, which can spell disaster if a sudden flood comes down the canyon. One August, massive flash flooding in several parts of Death Valley caused severe road damage and closures that lasted for many months of cleanup. Cars were destroyed, as they ended up a long way from where they were parked, tumbling around like toys. One car was full of boulders. Always watch the weather. Never hike canyons if you see heavy rain clouds over the mountains above. Be prepared, be safe, stay dry!
FORTY-NINERS: When a few gold seekers of 1849 sought a shortcut to the Sierra Nevada goldfields of California, they attempted to cross this valley, which, to that point, had no formal name given by any U.S. government agencies. It is from their tales of distress that Death Valley earned its dubious name, and they earned the 49ers label. Some of them spread word of gold and silver they found in the valley, and that began a period of interest for folks in search of financial fortunes. A volunteer, nonprofit group exists today called the Death Valley 49ers, which has an open membership to anyone who wishes to relive those legendary days of yore.
FUEL STOPS: There aren't many out here, and those that do exist, are pricey. But if you want to explore this land, they are a necessary evil because you can't afford to run out if you wish to survive, not to mention that driving is a necessity due to the long distances between areas to explore. In the National Park, you can fuel your rig at Furnace Creek, Stovepipe Wells, Panamint Springs, and Scotty's Castle. Outside the Park, your options are (counterclockwise from the south) Baker, Shoshone, seven miles north of Death Valley Junction, Lathrop Wells, Beatty, Big Pine, Lone Pine, Olancha, Coso Junction, Ridgecrest, and Trona. Fueling your BEV most definitely requires thoughtful preplanning based on the route you wish to explore. Be sure that your BEV will travel at least 200 miles on a tank of gasoline, if you figure one-half of your standard street mileage! So, let's say you can get 18 MPG on the highway, and you have a 25 gallon tank. That would mean you could travel 450 miles under ideal conditions. Now, take into account that you may be in 4wd part of the time, which consumes fuel more rapidly than highway driving. So, to be on the safe side, plan on only 9 MPG in this example - that would give you a range of only 225 miles under primitive road conditions. Work the math to be sure - don't leave anything to chance. The extremely remote routes require critical advance planning! This is no place to take chances.
FUNERAL MOUNTAINS: These mountains lie in the Amargosa Range, south of the Grapevine Mountains and north of the Black Mountains and Greenwater Range. They are bordered on the east by the State of Nevada, and on the west by the Death Valley sink. Echo Canyon and the Hole in the Wall roads offer two routes by which to experience the Funerals up close.
FURNACE, KUNZE, & GREENWATER: The dream of becoming rich from mining copper was the misguided basis for these three towns, all three of which the casual observer would never know existed by driving the dirt roads to them today. Located in the northern portion of the Greenwater Valley, miners flocked to these fledgling camps on over-hyped reports of easy wealth, from a mountain of copper, with population soaring rapidly during the late summer of 1906. By October, the Greenwater Times newspaper was spreading the news far and wide. Water had to be hauled in to the new towns 18 miles, from Furnace Creek. Some said it was the greatest copper find the world had ever seen, although it resulted in the largest investor losses witnessed in the Death Valley territory. Another town called Copperfield existed briefly also, but is not shown on most maps of the area.
FURNACE CREEK: The creek that runs out of the Funeral Mountains bears the same name as the now famous visitor's center that is synonymous with Death Valley. The reason for the area's modern popularity grew from its water and borax in the late 1800s. The borax kings, led by Frank Jenifer, and being masters of adaptability, built a tourist resort here in the 1927 when borax mining in the region had seen better days. Their foresight was accurate, and their legacy lives on in the Furnace Creek Inn.
FURNACE CREEK INN AND RANCH RESORT: Operated by Xanterra Parks and Resorts company, this popular tourist destination is accessed by thousands each year due to its oasis-like qualities in the middle of a rather hostile appearing terrain, over 200 feet below sea level. Palm Trees abound, water is plentiful from Furnace Creek, and numerous recreational opportunities exist for folks who prefer to remain closer to a more civilized feeling (unlike myself, who finds greater pleasures in the wild outback). At Furnace Creek, you can take a horse ride, swim in two pools, eat at fancy restaurants, shop in well stocked gift stores, play golf on the World's lowest course, visit a museum, listen to Ranger talks, learn about the history of Death Valley, take a hike, or drive the backroads. There's lots to do here ... come on out!
GALENA CANYON: This was the site for a talc mining operation, consisting of four mines operated by the Pfizer pharmaceutical company. Mining here began just prior to the mid 1900s. There are some challenging short roads around here, with dangerous mines also. Galena Canyon is in the eastern slope of the Panamint Range, near the southern terminus of the Death Valley salt flats. The road starts from the West Side road, and offers varied levels of moderate driving challenge.
GEOGLYPHS: Along with pictographs and petroglyphs, geoglyphs were a method that ancient people used to communicate their beliefs and thoughts to others through the ages. Geoglyphs are usually formations of rocks that have been arranged on the ground in the form of different shapes. They can be relatively small groupings that are visible from the ground, or massive arrangements that are not obvious unless seen from an airplane. These ancient techniques remain mysterious to visitors of areas where they are found, and their locations are often keep confidential by governmental agencies to prevent senseless vandalism by young males of the human species. Reports have it though that there are interesting rock alignments visible in the northern Panamint Valley, which can be seen from a low flying aircraft. I have yet to find them, probably because when I'm out here, my mode of travel is generally by foot or by BEV.
GHOST TOWN: Well, there most certainly is no shortage of these out here! Once inhabited by people, but now abandoned, a ghost town may have reached this sad state due to economic deprivation or natural catastrophe. A ghost town no longer functions as a true town, and may or may not have any readily visible artifacts remaining to demonstrate its former glory. In the Death Valley territory, some of the ghost towns can only be found by historical guidance because nothing exists at the site, but fortunately for all us avid backcountry explorers, most of them have some really neat things to see, like complete buildings, mines, and equipment. Among these are Panamint, Skidoo, Rhyolite, Leadfield, and Chloride City. Ballarat is not a true ghost town because economic activity still exists there, but the buildings and history are worth a visit.
GOLD: From the Latin word aurum, which means shining dawn, gold is considered by most of the world's population to be a very valuable precious metal because of its relatively rarity, so much so that men were tripping all over each other in the Death Valley region to find it. Most of them never got close, but a few like Bob Montgomery made out like bandits, earning fortunes from their mining endeavors. It was the dream of all prospectors to discover rich pockets of gold, and it was from these stories of toil that Death Valley grew into a land of legend. A few gold ventures did pay off, including Rhyolite, Skidoo, Lost Burro, and the Keane Wonder.
GOLDEN CANYON: Three miles south of Furnace Creek, this is one of the most visited canyons in the Park due to its accessibility. The hiking is superb, especially when the sun is lower in the sky. A great 5 mile hike connects Golden Canyon with Zabriskie Point, and the side canyons provide hours of outstanding exploration during cooler days. Golden Canyon is easily reached by any vehicle just off the paved highway. It is a hiking canyon only.
GOLD MOUNTAIN: Just outside the northeast border of Death Valley National Park in Nevada is Gold Mountain, an area where Thomas Jefferson Shaw and others found quite a bit of gold and silver. Most folks gave up, but Tom, a Texan, did work some mines for a profit. Camps with names like Lida, Tule Canyon, Gold Mountain,
