(Regarding website longevity, this domain expires when I do.)
Steve, Death Valley Desert Rat since 1955 "Live Long, Hike Far, Stay Wild"
Welcome friends! If you wish to leave behind the concrete and crowds of typical reality, you have certainly come to the right place! Some liken it to another planet ... a world of enchanting mystery, beauty, and adventure that forever beckons the rest of us. A land forever wild! I am pleased to have you as a guest. The contents of this website are meant to assist any Wild Death Valley explorer who finds the information useful. This region, and all that it has taught me, is my passion - and I experience immense personal satisfaction sharing my passion with you! Come explore the WILD side of Death Valley National Park, a primordial world of discovery and adventure!
Thanks for stopping by ...
Journal Entry: Day One - March 07, Wednesday I am driving eastbound down the Galena Canyon trail in late afternoon, heading for the West Side Road. It is on the eastern slope of the mighty Panamint Range. Death Valley is now in my view below. Ahead is the old mining operation that I passed on the way into this remote canyon. No other vehicles or humans are to be found here today. Skies are cloudy, the weather cool. My final stop tonight will at the end of Johnson Canyon, where I will set a primitive camp, and then hike to Hungry Bill's old abandoned fruit and nut ranch early tomorrow morning. It's about a three mile round trip hike. A Kentuckian in his early thirties named William Johnson used to grow food up there in the 1870s, and then transport it over Panamint Pass to the Panamint City mining operations. He made money with his venture - most of the miners did not. After the Wild Panamint silver frenzy finally died out, Johnson left, and a local Shoshone Chief called Hungry Bill moved in to the area and homesteaded a claim. They said he liked to eat a lot. Guess he came to the right place!
REGIONAL BRIEFING (What To Expect)![]()
A TO Z GUIDE (295 Death Valley Topics)
PHOTOGRAPHS (333 Territorial Images)
BACKROAD GUIDE (112 Roads - 1000 Miles)
HIKING GUIDE (26 Hikes - 100 Miles)
SURVIVAL GUIDE (Seventy Backroad Tips)
FREQUENT QUESTIONS (50 Answers)
ESSENTIAL GEAR (Trip Preparation Ideas)
MAP INFORMATION (Quick Visual Briefing)
MEET STEVE (The Old Trailmaster)
STEVE'S BOOKS (Encyclopedia & Journal)
TELESCOPE PEAK HIKE (Steve's Fall Trek)![]()
TOP TREKS (Where The Best Places Are)
VIDEO TRIPS (Death Valley Comes Alive)
MISSION, GOALS, BELIEFS (Do Things Right)
CONTACT INFORMATION (Who To Call)
VISITOR COUNTS (From 1933 To Present)
MOTIVATIONAL POEM (In The Mood To Roam)
BACKCOUNTRY CHATTER (From Viewers)
DEATH VALLEY IN '49 (Bennett-Arcan Story)
DEATH VALLEY WEATHER (As We Speak)
LINKS TO OTHER WEBSITES (83 Resources)
Welcome to the Land of Legend To the Natural World that created it, and the rugged people to whom it calls
Is your vision of a rewarding experience exploring distant wild places on backroads and hiking trails by day, and camping under the Milky Way by night? If so, you are the adventurer for whom this website and journal exist. This realm is an outback odyssey, chronicles of extended adventure and discovery during overland treks into an incredibly wild world. Within these pages, you will live history, touch geology, travel remote and primitive earthen roadways, hike trails, and breathe lots of nature. Here is a journey of personal enlightenment that will transport you far beyond the status quo, into a primal world of wonder, enchantment, and freedom.
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The famous Twenty Mule Team of Death Valley, hauling borax
This photo was taken on what is now the West Side Road, looking west towards the Panamint Range.
The little old prospector is Frank "Shorty" Harris, who was a big-time character of Death Valley's history!
DEATH VALLEY'S CURRENT WEATHER CONDITIONS:
DEATH VALLEY AS SEEN FROM SPACE SATELLITE:
TEAKETTLE JUNCTION - A NEW SLANT ON AN OLD SIGN: FOR MORE DEATH VALLEY VIDEO, CLICK HERE
A HUMOROUS DEATH VALLEY ADVERTISEMENT FROM THE APRIL 01, 1907 EDITION OF THE DEATH VALLEY CHUCK-WALLA NEWSPAPER:
From Wild Friends of the Outback ... hither and yon
Howdy folks ... this is The Old Trailmaster here. Have a comment or want to share something about Death Valley? If it's good news (after all, I don't want to spoil my perceived online image ;-), I'll post it here for all inhabitants of Planet Earth to behold. Hope you enjoy what others have written ...
"Hello Steve, While planning my second Death Valley trip I came across your website. It is by far the most helpful and informative website I have found! I have been studying all the information for the last few days and it has taught me so much (THANK YOU!). I picked up a copy of Tom Harrison's Death Valley map yesterday. With the help of your website and others I plan to be as prepared as I possibly can for my December 1st trip. Last year I was on a trip to Las Vegas and dropped into Death Valley through Titus Canyon on our way back home. We left Las Vegas at 1:00pm, so when we got into Titus Canyon it was already dark. We only saw 3 other cars along the way. We stopped in the middle of the canyon just so we could take in the peace and solitude. We thought we saw the lights of another car coming around the corner. For some reason we started to walk around a canyon wall to see who, or what, might be causing this bright light coming our way. To our astonishment, it was the full moon rising! It was so bright you could see your shadow on the ground! It was by far one of the best experiences I have ever had in a national park. After seeing Titus Canyon and all the other tourist spots, we had to leave. With only seeing the small portion that I did, I now tell people I rank Death Valley just barely behind Yellowstone, and I can't wait to go back!!! Through the help of your website and Tom Harrison's map I am planning out my upcoming trip. If you had the time and repond to this email, I would love to hear your thoughts about my December 1st trip and the places I plan to visit. Thanks again for having such a great website." - Robert Jennings, San Juan Capistrano, California
"Hi, I was surfing and came across your great site. I have visited Death Valley on three separate occasions but each time was too short, and I agree with you that it is a place that should not be missed. I especially enjoyed your article on taking the 2005 Xterra through the vigorous workout. My question is one concerning the rear swaybars. On an Xterra club website, they keep saying that you should remove the rear sway bars when going off road or you will damage the rear passenger shock. I don't have anywhere near the expertise that you do in off-roading, don't go beyond a level three. Just got my new '08 Xterra and was wondering what was/is you experience with this and would you suggest doing it? Again thanks for the great website and wonderful write-up of your trip." - Ron J. Bobson
"Good afternoon Steve, My wife and I have been studying your website quite a bit this past month, in hopeful preparation for a proposed trip to the United States within the next two years, as the famous Death Valley is one place we will definitely not miss! We will leave the children with Maria's family because they are too young to fully appreciate the experience. The plan includes arriving in Las Vegas by airplane, renting an auto there, and driving to Furnace Creek. We enjoy camping, so would stay in a tent at the campground during an autumn trip. Could you please recommend for us a few of the most memorable locations that we can reach by standard auto during the three days we would be there? I know it is a short time frame, so what is the best of the best? Thank you for your help. We like the website." - Kurt and MariaTrakl, Innsbruck, Austria
"Thank you so much Steve for your assistance in providing my two associates and me the topographic/terrain information necessary to conduct our botanical field studies in Dedeckera Canyon. It is indeed an extremely remote area in which to conduct research, and having never been there prior to this trip, I must admit to a certain amount of trepidation. Your knowledge of the area roads and potential hazards gave us the edge we needed to confidently plan and execute our modest expedition. Keep up the good work on your website, as it provides a solid resource base upon which Death Valley National Park visitors of any type may rely." - Dr. Suzanne Wilson, Ethnobotanist
"Hello Steve - Great site Wow. Those 'class 5' roads look challenging. I'll visit the site again when I have a break in my studies " - Randall
"Hi, Just found your website and love it! I am from Canada (Calgary) and head to the desert whenever I can. What part of the world do you live in? I have found a friend in Keeler, California who is well acquainted with DV and have passed on your website to him. Maybe you know him, Jim Hay (Turtle Jim). I have a friend in Utah that put together a Utah specific expedition website (http://www.expeditionutah.com/forum/) which might be a good model for one in California and a section on Death Valley. There could be others as well, say Anza-Borrego, Mojave, Rubicon (though that might be a short one, Ha!), etc. I am specifically interested in the desert ones and would add whatever I know. Sections could be databases, GPS, digital maps, trails, ghost towns, mines, craters, vegetation, neat coloured rocks, etc. Trip planning could be another one. Just an idea from someone who really enjoys this and is envious of those who live there and have fun everyday! Cheers and Thanks." - Jan Alsen, Calgary, Alberta, Canada
"Good morning Old Trailmaster! My wife and I have visited Las Vegas many times in the last 10 years and made a couple of trips out to Death Valley. I am fascinated by the place (I love your site, by the way!) and would love to spend 2 or 3 days on a more in-depth tour of the area. Are you aware of any companies that offer more comprehensive visits to the Park beyond the standard 1-day bus tours? Do you yourself still offer guide services (I have read your Q&A on the subject) ? I am afraid I've never driven in the USA outside of Kauai, Hawaii - and would feel that DV may not be an appropriate place for testing my skills - thus the request for guidance. We are traveling from the UK and will be in the area in June. Many of the tours are in the cooler times of year March/April/Oct/Nov. I am guessing also that arriving on the cusp of the summer may not be an appropriate time to get the best out of the Valley, but seeing as I visit the West three times a year (certainly for the last 10 years or so) I would like to keep in contact for any future possibilities. It has always amazed me that touring in the area has never been fully realised, and whilst I accept that anyone who wants to go beyond scratching the surface with the standard bus tours from LV may indeed simply drive - there must be a core of people who would rather be guided by people who love, respect and know the area - try asking that at a Las Vegas tour booth - you will end up at the Grand Canyon anyway!! I'm not adverse to driving it myself but there will always be an additional stress of being a tourist alone in an inhospitable and potentially dangerous place who will not know what roads "are good" and what roads are, frankly, "not good"! Hey, and I'll be on the "wrong side of the road". Ha, ha. Kind Regards." - Steve Hamilton, United Kingdom
"All the very best with your newest book. It looks like more vintage Trailmaster, and I'm sure it will be terrific." - Roslyn Bullas, Publishing Manager, Wilderness Press, Berkeley, California
"Hi Steve, We emailed and talked on the phone in February 2008 regarding a trip over the Swansea-Cerro Gordo grade, and then Lippencott into Death Valley. I just got back Monday and it was a great trip! Swansea still has snow and is impassable, give it at least two more weeks. We also went over the Lippencott road, and it was great. I am glad we did it now because if there was a really wet year, it might become impassable unless someone (4wd club) adopted it and fixed some of the washouts. The road into Striped Butte valley is fine, just a few rough spots but not too bad. Mengel Pass is another story. As you probably know, there is one bad spot just before the summit. It is really bad now! I would not advise anyone to try it alone, and it would be best if they had lockers on their vehicle's differential. Goler Canyon is no problem but the road to Barker Ranch has a 'road closed' sign on it because there are sheriff deputies in there looking for bodies from Charles Manson's legacy. I want to thank you again for taking the time to talk with me. You were a great help to us! If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Thanks again!" - Jon Reimers, Bakersfield, California
"I am just starting my 'homework' studying what it will take to hike up to the top of Telescope Peak. Reading your account was inspiring, informative and fun. Thanks for writing it! I just spotted it on the Internet using the Yahoo search engine. I had gone down to Death Valley to check the wildflowers and dropped in to Ballarat. I bought a T-shirt and a Mountain Dew from the guy, Rocky, in the general store there. I must admit I was skeptical of the Manson truck claim made by Rocky, the guy watching the little store there. When I got home and read about Ballarat I was shocked to see it might just really have been the infamous criminal's vehicle. You never know, I guess. Anyway, I may carry my sleeping bag and make a two day one nighter of the Telescope climb. September might be good; we'll see. It's a good motivator for me to get off the couch anyway." - Harley Hansen, Sacramento, California
"Hello Steve: Been reading a few minutes at a time your book. I'm enjoying it immensely. I like your style of writing - instead of dry commentary or "what you will see at this point," I enjoy "riding" along with you and can "see" what you see out of your windshield. The margins are getting filled with my notes as I read along." - David A. Wright, Great Basin Historian, Big Pine, California
"Greetings Steve, My life seems to be moving at about 100 mph right now. I wanted to say a hearty THANK YOU! for sending me the copy of your book. My life has been so crazy in the past months that I have barely been able to read the intro and part of the first chapter, which I've enjoyed very much. I really love the design of the front and back covers. Very well done. I have it tucked in my Overland Journal Maxpedition bag so I can try to sneak a read here and there when I travel. Our Conservation editor is in the midst of a 60-series Land Cruiser project that will be converted to run on bio-diesel. We also plan to do some test drives of hybrid and high-mpg vehicles including some off-pavement evaluations. I hope you are having a fantastic 2008 so far." - Chris Marzonie, Editorial Director, Overland Journal Magazine, Prescott Arizona
"Dear Mr. Greene, It is my pleasure to inform you that the Las Vegas-Clark County Library District has decided to purchase two copies of Exploring Wild Death Valley. Our Acquisitions Department will be contacting you soon regarding the order. It is not often that I get the pleasure of corresponding with an author that is so generous of his time and resources as you have been! If the books do as well as I hope they will, I will look forward to contacting you again for additional copies. Thanks again and ... happy trails! :-)" - Teresa Handleman, Las Vegas-Clark County Library District, Nevada
"Hi Steve, Your adventures sound wonderful. I especially liked the description of your encounter with the little bobcat. The pictures of the area are also very beautiful. I can see why you like Death Valley so much." - Esther Dalgas, Head Librarian, Entiat, Washington
"Hello Steve, My name is Richard Fry and I'm finally getting around to emailing you. I met you at the Mahogany Flat campground a couple years back when you spoke to me and my friend Tom just after I finished my climb of Telescope Peak. You asked me some questions about the climb as you were planning to make the climb yourself, and according to your website you have since made the summit. I hope it was as much fun for you as it was for me! You may remember that we were driving a rented white Chevrolet HHR (a modern copy of a '49 panel truck) and you were surprised that we drove all the way to the campground. We went on from Death Valley to Lake Tahoe, through the Sierra's, back to Las Vegas, and flew home to Missouri without any problems. My 62nd birthday is coming up in March and to celebrate I'm planning to hike into the Grand Canyon and see Havasupai falls. Keep enjoying the great outdoors and I will do the same!" - Rich Fry, Missouri
"Steve, I've been reading your new book, following along various locations on your safaris via the "Google Earth" software program. Do you know about it? You can find locations all over the world, and folks submit photos to be part of it." - Bob Vail, Lake Arrowhead, California
"Gday Steve, Greetings from Australia. Ive been enjoying your website more than I can say and I thought it was time I popped in and said hi. I am impressed beyond words with your site. The love you have for the place really shines through and .. its infectious. I really hope when I get Stateside we can hook up, as Id love to learn from your vast experience of Death Valley. It has been a place that has called to me for many, many years but now, as the reality of being able to get there comes nearer Ive been very fortunate to meet others who share the same feelings I have for the Valley. Im a real greenhorn but I dont think that matters a hill of beans! This will be my first trip to America, but I have had a life time of fascination with your country. For certain, I have never seen a place so God-blessed with natural magnificence as America, and I have traveled a lot of the world. I am not one for monuments and the things that aggrandize man. For me, its the natural world, and America has an abundance of that natural, enough to delight and amaze me for a long time. I would love nothing better than to see a bit of Death Valley with a man such as yourself, who knows it and loves it. Trust me, my camp-fire conversations are usually very scant, as I absorb the natural all around me. I find I have not much to say at all, when nature is impacting on me. Its better to be silent, and absorb. What I do have to say around the fire is never polluted by the outside world. Creation is not a place to argue and harangue . Its a place to be humble and learn. Im sure you agree. As the time for my arrival gets closer and more definite, maybe we can do some real planning about a trip into the Valley? Howd you feel about taking me to Dedeckera Canyon?!! Stay in touch." - Peter and Ruth Callaghan, Australia
"Hi Steve - We just received your Exploring Wild Death Valley book. Thank you so much. I wish I could write like you do. I'm only on page 48 but it seems like you do what we do . NO PLANS. When we're out there we have no idea of the time unless we're doing the Fall Haul (Which we started anyway), and it is social. We find out about a lot of places in DV, talking to people, but we've also seen a lot of things because we are on our own. Please come to our annual Fall Haul Oct. 31 2008 (next year). You are cordially invited to pitch your tent in our campsite. It will be our honour. Hope you can make it. Need a ride? We're coming your way. Think about it! Always Wild," - Nancy and Ray Currie, Coquitlam, British Columbia, Canada
"Hi Steve - Just received the copy of your book. Thank you! I think it came out well; I like the way the photos are presented. Small suggestion: next time maybe add a one-page locator map of the area covered in the book, for quick reference? It's a nice feature. Anyway, you should be very proud of it, and I hope it sells like crazy! It deserves to. Your site looks great! Rich in content and nicely designed too. I've bookmarked it and will definitely refer to it before our next Death Valley expedition (along with your book, of course). Take care," - Roslyn Bullas, Publishing Manager, Wilderness Press, Berkeley, California
"Hello Steve. I'm just past half way in your photo page is a photo of a cabin titled "Secret Old Camp - You find it". Is that by any chance an old photo taken at the Lotus/Keystone mine in Goler Canyon? The pic looks like it was taken some time ago, before the shower room and the two trailers were added to the right of the pic. I've been to and by the Lotus/Keystone a hundred times and I'd just about bet the rent that your pic is the Lotus/Keystone. Looking closer it appears that the structure on the end is the old shower/bath room, after someone tore the siding off of the walls. I base my answer on the one pic I'm sending you that I know is the Keystone. The Keystone was originally known as the Lotus mine until the early 70's. It was originally started by the Warner Brothers, of movie fame I've been told. There used to be a cable car on tracks that ran from just above the main cabin, the cabin in question, to the top of the ridge line. The main addits for the mine are located on the other side of the ridge line facing Panamint valley. The new owners took out the cable car and cut the road to the top. They also put in, since removed, a 4 ton jaw crusher, ball mill, and either 2 or 3 8' shaker tables. I still think it's the Keystone." - Hallett Newman, southern California
"Hey Steve! I love the emails you've been sending with the pictures! Great job! Thank you for sending your Death Valley adventure book. I'm so excited to see the journal and to look through it. I wish I could have given you pictures to put into it... maybe next time! It would be a lot of fun to get together and go back to Death Valley.... Darcy absolutely loves the desert, and I think I'm starting to enjoy it also... especially if I get an Xterra! Me, I love the cold, foggy, coast. I loved England and Prague because of the cold. My favorite season is winter. Apart from the fact that I love snow! And, snowboarding! :) Talk more soon!" - Annie Doan, iMotion Photos, Los Gatos, California
"Dear Mr. Greene, This email is to thank you for your website and journal, both of which have been exceptionally informative for our family. We plan on visiting the United States this next year, with several of our destinations being American National Parks, foremost the famous Death Valley. We have learned much from your writings, and shall include your book in our luggage for reference. With your permission, I would like to send photographs to you when we return. As you have said in your exciting book, see you on the old trails!" - Kazuo Hayashi, Osaka, Japan
"Hi there Steve, What a great website you have with lots of great features and photos. I read your article to my husband and it made us home sick. It's funny that you mentioned Roger Mitchell since his books were the beginning of our first adventures too. Lingenfelter's book of course is like the bible of the area. Have you read Emmett Harder's book "These Canyon's are Full of Ghosts"? It includes a lot of stories about mining around Butte Valley. His wife and I work on the Panamint Breeze paper together. It would be great to get together sometime in the backcountry. We hope to go out with the horses and mules sometime this spring before the weather heats up too much. We usually have a base camp in Ballarat so we can do 4x4 day trips and Rocky keeps an eye on everything for us. Here is our link: panamintbreeze.com " - Maggie Jones, Panamint Breeze magazine
"Steve, do you remember an old abandoned Dodge Power Wagon (kinda faded yellow) sitting in the dirt across from the Ballarat store? The caretaker told me it was Tex Watson's, Charlie's right hand man. There are stars painted on the headliner area, just like the ones on the cabin ceiling! Apparently, Tex was arrested in it right there, and it has never moved! I have been reading parts of your book, and you have a way with words that paints a picture of what you have done and seen. Man, I didn't even know you could spell! Later pal, I'll drop a line once in a while!" - Jim Oneal, Manhattan Beach, California
Hi Steve, Congratulations! I can only imagine how much time and effort you've put into not only writing the book but also going through the publishing process. Of course that doesn't even take into account the years and years of wandering around in the desert that were necessary to even be able to write the book in the first place! We're really proud of you, Steve! We're getting ready for a week long backpack down into the Havasupai Indian reservation near the Grand Canyon. Who would ever think that there are so many details to attend to? When we return we'll be checking your website for the particulars about your book. Thanks so much for bringing us up to date!" - The Dzrtgrls, Niki and Jamie
"Hi, Steve, I see a lot of my friends have dropped by to say hi on your comment page so thought I should too. I loved your article on the Panamints that was submitted to deathvalley.us. I do a little writing and exploring myself so perhaps I'll see you out there on the dusty dirt trail someday. I'm kind of partial to the Inyos and Cerro Gordo myself. But I'm always on the trail to California history, even if it's from my computer here at home. Here are the links to my website and the one to my "ghost town away from home" if you want to check them out: explorehistoricalif.com and cerrogordo.us. Thanks. 'Well behaved women rarely make history' - Laurel Thatcher Ulrich" - Cecile Vargo, Explore Historic California magazine
"I love your website. The more I went through the site, the more I thought to myself, man this guy is my twin. Anyway, I finally read your bio and saw that you used to be a cop. I am also an ex-cop. I used to live in Central Nevada and would duck down in to Death Valley every chance that I got - it's brain candy to me; like a drug. I find a happiness out there that can't be put in to words; it's almost religious, yet sac-religious to talk about it and not use the right words as words cannot compete with the poetry of the landscape. There's only a few people that I've ever talked to that 'get' it although I have a feeling that you probably do. I am in the process of building a new Jeep and hope to do Saline Valley, the Race Track, and other points in the Northern end of the park this April. Happy trails and congrats on an excellent website." - Dave Walls, Nevada
"Hey there Steve - just thought I'd drop a quick line to let you know that I really am enjoying all you offer on your DV website. I've visited the park twice over the years, and so it's like I'm out there when I read the different stories, look at all the photos, and learn about the history. Your survival discussion and the safety information that you present through the question and answer page are worth reading for all us four wheelers and hikers who like to get away from the crowds. And one more thing before I send this email; you really crack me up with the little asides about grandpa on your road rating page in your new book! Thanks for the laughs! Now go get out there where you belong, my fellow trail finder." - Ron Maruyama, Atlanta, Georgia
"Hail Steve! I've just spent a delightful midday read of the second half of your missive about your October 27th into November Safari from southern-most to northern-most Death Valley. The detail you provide added to my own experiences there over the past seven decades, and enriches my knowledge of that place manifold. By the way, I do believe it's indeed a Ford front cowl (at Strozzi Ranch) from which someone has removed the gas tank. The chromed beading around the firewall and other hints make it a '30-31 and the straight windshield pillars make me guess it was a soft-top pickup or perhaps a cabriolet. The bulging firewall is typical of those two years, as is the bakelite box in the middle where wiring passed through. There appears to be a nameplate in the correct location which would tell of its manufacture but I suspect the paint has disappeared with age. I see the receptacles for the rods used to brace the radiator. Your sojourn took me back to many familiar places, but as you, I had not visited in the Nevada triangle which came with enlargement of the Monument into a National Park. Health issues may prohibit my doing so, along with ever cresting Telescope Peak, I'll have to rely on you and Tumbleweed and your digital camera to provide the vistas. I went to DV with my parents in the 1930s and thanks to superb recall, can conjure images of times there with them. More recently, scouting for the TransAmericas Rally lured me back. I also trekked there with the Porsche Club in the mid-eighties. It took little incentive to point me in that direction! Forever Mild, your Buddy ..." - Lynn Wineland, former Automotive Journalist, Apple Valley, California
"Steve: I have just finished reading both your latest adventures. As a way to further express your feeling and talent you need to consider a book. Have you looked into the idea of a coffee table publication? Complete with pictures and descriptions of the locations in Death Valley. You have been fortunate to experience a locale many would like to enjoy vicariously. Your writing is quite good, and you are able to paint a verbal picture enhanced by the photographs. I think you should add this to your résumé and consider sharing your talent with others. Enough sucking up ;-) Take care -" - Thomas Grimes, Florence, Oregon
"Hi Steve, Our itinerary got altered, due to mechanical difficulties. We ran the Pleasant Canyon/South Park Loop, then entered Goler Wash and camped out at Barker Ranch on our first night, then then next day, we headed down Butte Valley and to Warm Springs (which is when we discovered my mechanical problem- the front left strut mount had worn. Apparently, excessive washboard vibration allowed the strut shaft to vibrate back and forth in the mounting hole, which elongated the hole and eroded the threads of the shaft. We determined to tighten the nut when we arrived at Furnace Creek.). After reaching pavement, we saw Badwater, Devils Golf Course, Artists Drive, then picked out a campsite at Furnace Creek. The next morning, I attempted to tighten the nut on the strut mount, but because the shaft had been vibrating so much, it had weakened, and the threaded top of the shaft sheared off with the nut! That pretty much terminated any possibility of further off-highway adventures. We went to the Chevron station in FC and asked if anyone had a welder to make my truck safe enough to drive back home. Fortunately, the FC golf course maintenance guy offered to help us out, and he TIG-welded the top of the shaft to the mount. That day, we had planned to run Echo Canyon and Titus, but instead we left my crippled Pathfinder at the campground and hopped into my friend's X and checked out the Racetrack (starting from Ubehebe). It was really neat, and we took some great pictures of those "magical" rocks. We enjoyed a nice swim and hot showers at the recently refurbished FC pool complex. The remainder of our trip kept us on the pavement for the most part. We saw Dante's View, then left DV and carefully and slowly drove out to Darwin Falls and did a little rock-scrambling to reach the bottom of the spectacular upper falls. The rest of our trip consisted of visiting sites along Hwy 395: Whitney Portal, Alabama Hills, Devil's Postpile, Mammoth, Mono Lake, and finally heading back home through Tioga Pass (Yosemite). I've never checked out Hanaupah Canyon. It's an in-and-out trip, not a loop, right? Is there anything interesting to see on that road? I'd really like to get back out there sometime next year, if the roads are in passable, and check out Echo Canyon, Telescope Peak, Lippencott Rd, Saline Valley, and Eureka Dunes. I'll send you a few pics of our trip when I have a chance. Take care!" - Dean Thayer, from your Roads Not Taken chapter
"Good morning Steve. Thank you so much for the chapter in your book of the Telescope Peak climb! My two friends, Cathy and Marge, plan on hiking with me to the top also, and after reading your informative story, we all have a much better idea of what to expect. Hiking is my hobby, although mountain climbing isn't something I generally do. I have enjoyed poking around in Death Valley National Park before, and that highest peak intrigues me. So, now we will go give it a try. Are there any other pointers or help you could offer for three gals on a natural high? Our plan is to do the climb this coming May, hopefully after all the snow is melted. What do you think of the Wildrose Peak trail? Is it easier? Would you call the Telescope trail a frightening hike? Thanks for your help!" - Julie Thomas, Grand Forks, North Dakota
"Hello Steve, My spirit has been embracing your story of Panamint ever since I read it. What a wonderful adventure ... and so engagingly written. I enjoyed it much more than the stories I dig out every now and then in my book on old time "Tales from Nevada." Its writing is kinda dry. After reading it, I Googled Panamint to see photos. Your writing has sounded the call of the west to sing out loud in my heart! Can't wait to get out there and take some photos of my own one of these days. .... and I'm kinda glad D.V. still "alarms the masses" otherwise it would look like Las Vegas .... with a Walmart right smack up against that chimney in Panamint. A few weeks ago our local PBS station televised a D.V. episode on their long-running Nature series. I think they did a very poor job and certainly should have consulted you and your website for better information. They showed the usual "dry, barren, smoldering, snake-filled wasteland" mythical image of the desert rather than the "mystical, colorful, serene" beauty which I have come to know all southwest deserts to be. Barely any mention of plant life in general and showing the blooming of the flowers last year (which probably inspired the filming of the show) for about ten seconds at the end. So many beautiful deserts---and other sites---out west besides D.V. Too much for one lifetime!" - Gloria Nash, Mathematics Instructor, The Bronx, New York
"Mr. Greene, I wish to offer my compliments on a job well done. Your complete website presentation, along with your detailed travel suggestions via email, have proven valuable in my study of Death Valley. I thank you for the knowledge of the area's back country and roads that you have provided, and believe that you must certainly be amongst the most resourceful guides of the region. I shall recommend your expertise to others in my circle." - Timothy Ellsworth, Ph.D.
"Hey Steve, Very nice site. Thanks for adding me to your link page. A group of us will be out in Panamint mid March. Be sure to stop by if you are out that way. Here is the main link for viewers who like the area: panamintcharlie.com. Someone sent me the link to your Wild Panamint article the other day. Nice work! I really liked it. I'm thoroughly enjoying the book. I only get time to read 10-20 pages a night, so it might take me a while to get through it. I work 10 hour shifts and home-school my kids. There's not enough time in the day to get everything done. See ya out there." - Panamint Charlie, Pine Valley, California
"Hello Steve, My name is Kerry O'Dair the Great Grandson of Barton Henderson O'Dair. I would like to supply you with some information on Barton that might make your stop at the Vulture mine more interesting in terms of a historical standpoint. I have been researching Barton for about 12 years trying to figure out where he came from and where he went. I am the last O'Dair in my line and the information on Barton was incorrect in family lore. He died when his three sons were less than 8 years of age. He was born in Pennsylvania and the family moved to Cumberland Maryland. He left with his brother and friends cross country to the gold fields of California Between 1850 and 1860 in Marysville California. He later showed up in Nevada in 1865 in Reese River and married his first wife. He had gold and silver mines in this area. He next showed up in Utah and in 1880 he was in Inyo county California as a mine superintendent in resting springs. In his Obituary it talked about his mine in Death Valley. Your information is the first in regards to that mine. He married a second time to my Great Grandmother in 1880. Should you have any additional local information on him I would appreciate it. He certainly led a much more interesting life than I might have imagined when I started my search. Any specific details about his life that I know I would gladly relate to you. Thanks for keeping history alive for people to know about the past." - Kerry O'Dair
"Mr. Trailmaster - Any word about Hardrock Ed Hale and the burro flapjack race? Any word from C. A. "Pinky" Richards? Any word about Seldom Seen Slim? Pinky was a Geologist doing his thesis on the Funeral Range and working with American Potash where I met him. I worked for Potash from '53 to '60, Ed was an acquaintance but more into the desert thing than I was. I met Seldom once or twice and admired his scam but not particularly his smell. He was also known as Seldom Clean. We said then about prospectors in general they were one foot from a million dollars or a million feet from a buck. And did your buddy tell you why there was a dredger on top of a mountain in Red Mountain? Or about when beer was cheaper than water?" - Walter Wallis, a desert rat from way back
"I enjoyed browsing through your Death Valley website. You have some great pictures. I don't need any excuse to visit Death Valley. It is a fascinating place. One place I discovered was the house Johnson built for Scotty. I walked up on the hillside behind the house to check out the spring. One place I haven't taken the time to visit yet is the Race Track. A good reason to return to the park! I spend as much time as possible in our beautiful Sierra Mountains. I'd love to join you on one of your safaris. My next safari is to Japan. I'm currently writing a series of world history courses for Fresno Pacific University. Thanks for sharing this land with others Steve." - David Miller, Professor, Seattle Pacific University
"Howdy Old Trail Master, Wow! You do some serious writing! That's meant as a compliment... I found your site after re-visiting Jim Shrake's Shrockworks site looking for new product offerings on skidplates for my back road vehicle. I read enough of your writings to now better understand how you have time to write so much. Your decisions on life priorities seems to have provided more exploration (and keyboard) opportunities than most of us make time for. My own plans for such are about two years away, as I plan to retire soon. I'm ready right now! Your mindset on backroads exploration seems quite similar to a best bud and myself, i.e., have rigs capable for the unexpected obstacle, but we don't bash and crash just for the sake of it. Best regards," - Jeffrey Lardner
"Hello Steve, I recently purchased a 2006 xterra and really enjoyed reading about your adventures in Death Valley. Sounded like a blast! I hope to get down there myself in the spring for some off-roading, and the wealth of information that you provide on your website for planning the trip is much appreciated. I had a question for you about your sleeping arrangements in the Xterra. I too am hoping to use the X as a mobile home on some of my adventures, and I was wondering what you used to fill the "gap" between the fold-down seats and the front passenger seat. Do you remove the seat portion of the folding seat entirely? Or do you use it to fill some of the gap? Any insight would be appreciated. Also, your make-shift window screens are brilliant! Thanks for the help, and happy trails!" - Ryan Myers
"Hi Steve, I'm Elliott Green (no "e"). I moved to Las Vegas in 2004 after my wife died of Cancer at the age of 48. Too good and too young to go. My son told me to go to Amargosa, NV to take photos of sand dunes, which is something I would very much like to do. Can you be of any help to me? Telling me of a good vantage place or at least a place to start? Any information would be a big help as I have never been to the area." - Elliott Green, Las Vegas, Nevada
The people in the photo above are standing in front of a now nonexistent building at Ballarat, California. The well known Charles Ferge is the man on the far left, and is better known as Seldom Seen Slim. He is buried in the Ballarat cemetery, having passed away in 1968 in nearby Trona, California. Slim was born in Illinois in 1881, came to Ballarat sometime during World War One, and was fond of saying, "Me lonely? Hell no! I'm half coyote and half wild burro." He was 80 years old, and the last of a wild breed of rugged Mojave prospectors. Photo courtesy of Hallett Newman - Thanks Hallett!
Another photo of Seldom Seen Slim:
WARNING OF INHERENT RISKS Backcountry exploration, travel on unpaved primitive roads, and hiking far from human habitation can endanger yourself and your vehicle. Such activity carries with it inherent risks including, but not limited to, tire punctures, sheet metal damage from rocks, paint scratches, vehicular destruction, hypothermia, dehydration, starvation, wild animal attack, consequences from medical problems arising in the absence of a medical professional, and death. Prior to embarking upon a backcountry safari, you must personally evaluate these potential outcomes, voluntarily choose to explore with full understanding of the inherent risks involved, and do so while fully accepting personal responsibility for yourself, your vehicle, and anyone in your care. While all reasonable diligence has been brought to bear in the creation of this website to inform you how to keep you and your vehicle safe from harm, there are no guarantees or promises, stated or implied, given to you by WildDeathValley.com with regards to the risks involved in any backcountry activity. Backcountry exploration is always unpredictable and often dangerous. Never go alone or with only one vehicle. Always inform Rangers of your intended route. YOU CHOOSE TO EXPLORE THE BACKCOUNTRY ENTIRELY AT YOUR OWN RISK!
Please feel free to email me with any questions or comments:
WildDeathValley.com - Your backcountry guide to Death Valley National Park
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