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Outback information designed to assist friends of WildDeathValley.com
Geologist Cabin, Butte Valley, Striped Butte at sunrise
Journal Entry: Day Four - October 30, Monday Nearly dawn here on lonely Phinney Pass, it's extremely cold, and of course, very quiet on the wooded mountainsides outside the window of the BEV. At this elevation, warmth will be slow in coming. I best get an early start this morning, for I have many miles of overland travel ahead of me. Last afternoon's ascent up the remote and seldom traveled Phinney Canyon in western Nevada's portion of Death Valley National Park was a unique exploratory experience, one that I highly recommend. Think I'll eat breakfast inside my rig today to keep warm. Once I maneuver past that gigantic boulder down canyon, the rest of the drive to Red Pass and Titus Canyon will be a relaxing time. Early morning is one of the best times to be in Titus, for shadows and cliff colors are more pronounced. My plan today is to also explore the Oriental Ghost Town area and Gold Mountain, a maze of alluring backroads that will surely tempt any outback safari explorer in these parts. Cucomungo Canyon will come later in the day, making a good camp.
Warn the Scouts
Boy Scouts have the proper philosophy when it comes to the best insurance for a safe return: Be prepared! If you're going into the wild and remote backcountry, set out prepared or don't set out at all. The bottom line here is that we leave as little to chance as is possible. Beating the odds may work for driving around town each day, but in the outback where we venture, there is little room for such a cavalier attitude. As the saying goes: "Failing to prepare is preparing to fail."
For us to have fun and enjoy the solitude this planet offers in abundance, we need to feel reasonably assured that our transportation out there will not leave us out there ... stranded. Even if we can hop in someone else's rig to get back home, no one wants to leave their wheels unprotected in the outback for mice and spiders to call their new home. I had to do it once, and while it makes for a great story later on, it's a bummer when it's happening! Therefore, the vehicle, and what's in the vehicle, is where we'll begin this narrative on backcountry safety.
Old Murphy The Old Trailmaster is firm believer in Murphy's Law, that age-old, seemingly nonsensical philosophical dribble about catastrophe being inversely proportional to preparedness. It goes something like this (in two of its famous incantations): "If anything can go wrong, it will." Or, seeing it another way, "The less prepared you are for something, the greater the likelihood that it will occur." Yes, yes, I know this law has no basis in factual scientific theory it is completely without foundation. But, nevertheless, its dark fog hovers silently in the far reaches of my mind, so I ritualistically make sure I have my bases covered the best of my ability to anticipate negative scenarios.
The second version is the one I am most concerned about because it is the one that occasionally affects me. So, I just began figuring that the inverse of it must surely also be true (I call it Stevie's Law): "The more prepared you are for any given eventuality, the less likely its chance of occurring." That's because Murphy can't have any fun with me knowing that I'm ready. I think my dad must have believed this too because he was always harping on me to tend to every little detail ad nauseam. Of course, now his warnings probably have me in a "Chicken Little" mode.
Keep the maintenance schedule on your BEV (Backcountry Exploration Vehicle) current at all times. Write it down so you don't forget a year from now. Every time something wears out or breaks on your rig, use that knowledge to be more prepared next time. Get the spare part, if it is reasonable to stow in the BEV, and a repair you can make yourself out on the trail. Pick your mechanic's brain, and have him proactively speculate what needs to be done ahead of time before something "goes south" at an inopportune time. The idler pulley on my serpentine belt was once becoming worn (something that street drivers would leave until it gave up) but I replaced the inexpensive part, knowing that if broke "out there" I would be up the creek without a paddle. Engine hoses, radiator and serpentine belts, and tires are some of the more obvious things to keep an eye on prior to each trip. How's your water pump? Fuel pump? Fuel filter? Spark plugs? There are a million little things it seems, but a little thing can bring you to a grinding halt and ruin your day! Think you have thought of it all? Murphy will happily show you what you've missed. Be proactive ... replace and repair in a timely fashion.
Carry emergency repair supplies and backup items with you in your BEV ... however much you can fit in there. You may carry most of it for years and never touch it, but you are ready, and have some peace of mind! Murphy knows you have it too. I used to carry extra engine oil, but having never used it once in over thirty years, nowadays get my peace of mid from protecting the vulnerable oil pan with a skidplate. No matter where you're going, have emergency survival supplies in your rig that are always available. Extra clothing for cold weather, several day's (or week's) worth of food and water, survival tools, and rescue gear are all essential for those who leave little to chance.
Let me list a few of the things I always keep in my vehicle. In no particular order, they are: signal mirror, strobe light, waterproof matches, fire extinguisher, backpack, first aid kit, survival books, manually powered flashlight, food, water, sun still, eating utensils, bowls, nylon rope, toilet paper, cell phone, gloves, jackets, warm head coverings, coveralls, towels, rain gear, waterproof boots, fishing line and hooks, large knife, all kinds of hand tools, tow strap, shovel, traction aides, tree saw, duct tape, silicone sealant, plastic bags, sledge hammer, and my brain engaged. And for today's electronically controlled BEVs, spare fuses are an absolute must! Who would have ever guessed that a blown fuse could render one's 4wd capability inoperable?
Recently, while scouting in the Panamints for an exciting new route to explore, my right rear tire slid off a large boulder, and the rim caught the blunt stone with the full weight of the vehicle. Within seconds I lost all the air, and faced a severely bent rim. The tire was unharmed. Rather than install my spare, I tried using my sledge hammer to pound out the large dent. Forty minutes later, my wheel was round enough to see if it would take air. My small 275 PSI air compressor (available for about 40 bucks at most auto stores), did the trick in another 20 minutes, and I was on my way.
One winter on Interstate 5 in northern California, over 300 motorists were stranded overnight along the ribbon of concrete, courtesy of a freak snowstorm, and one elderly man did not survive to be rescued the next day - his wife went back from their vacation a widow. Stories like that keep me ever vigilant!
Always remember this: a fun weekend in the backcountry can kill you! I know this not because I am writing to you from the afterlife, but because many years ago I was the field chief for a high-country search and rescue team. So as not to be one of those sad statistics we hear about occasionally on the news where some young backpacker never comes back after an innocent trek into nature, or the family who drives into the mountains two hours before the heaviest snow in years, never to drive out, we must spend a little time brainstorming what we might possibly face, and how to deal with it (or avoid it altogether).
I'm going to briefly touch on a few survival thoughts. In fact, the first thing I recommend doing as a prudently cautious adventurer, is buying a good book (or two) about survival. Here are a few: Outdoor Survival by Garth Hattingh, New Holland Publishers, Inc. (ISBN 1 84330 822 3) - Emergency/Survival Handbook by the American Outdoor Safety League (ISBN 0-916890-64-3) - Desert Survival Handbook, How to Prevent and Handle Emergency Situations by Charles A Lehman, American Traveler Press (ISBN: 0-935810-65-x). Read your books thoroughly and purchase the minimal supplies the author says are necessary to save your life. This is the first step to outsmarting Murphy's Law - a loophole if you will. Not only do I keep these supplies in my rig, I keep the book with them so that I'll have a handy reference should I need to spend more time out there than my original plans called for. It sure keeps my mind at peace!
Whenever possible, do not travel alone. There is usually safety in numbers. Two people in one vehicle are better than one person in one vehicle. Two people in two vehicles are better still. The more the merrier not only will you likely have more fun with your friends and family as you share in exploration, but if something goes wrong, you'll have more options. A vehicle malfunction that puts it out of order is big on my list of cautious concerns, so if at least one other BEV is with you, there is still a way out (unless you're both buried to your axles in mud or snow, in which case you can congratulate each other over your combined lack of foresight - next time go one at a time!).
Assuming that you are traveling the outback with a group, I recommend having at least one person along who is experienced in the art of maneuvering a 4wd vehicle through demanding trail terrain. If ever necessary, this person could drive everyone else's vehicle through a particularly challenging or unnerving spot in the roadway. This is good back-up insurance.
Park and Walk Anytime you are unsure of the road ahead, always park your BEV (parking brake on, engine off, and key out), and get out to walk the section of road before you drive it. I think it's fun to do this, discussing with other drivers the best way around a rock or over a gully, and it helps build your confidence on trails with a greater difficulty rating. Better safe than sorry, as the saying goes. For me, these challenging portions of the road help spark my personal sense of adventure, making the refinements of our modern-day world seem like they're on another planet. Besides, I love the extra physical exercise for my health!
Don't take unnecessary chances or risks! You're out there to have fun and enjoy nature, so keep things tame. Listen to the advice of others who may be extremely hesitant about trying a road that has been washed out by a storm, for example. Look for ways around a place in the road that appears to be asking for trouble. As a last resort, it is okay to turn around. Take it from someone who has been stuck and had to leave his Jeep out in the boonies, coming back later to retrieve it: such things may make great stories to remember around the campfire or to recall in our old age, but they are often no fun when they are happening! Fortunately, the times I have experienced trouble over the years, I was usually with others, and I am glad I was. Groups are simply more fun too!
Once in the late seventies, I was way up in the Sierra Nevada Mountains in California with an Australian buddy of mine. I was in my little black Jeep and he was in his little blue Jeep. We were on the infamous Ershim Trail, 26 miles of primarily Class-5 exploration between two designated wilderness areas, and many hours away from help of any kind (the Ershim and the Rubicon were cut from the same mold). Well, on the second day out, he broke part of his steering linkage, the kind of thing that required a welder to fix! He was going nowhere! To make a long story short, he camped out at his disabled Jeep as I drove the remaining 8 miles of trail road (at an average speed of 2-3 MPH), took the graded dirt road around Courtwright Reservoir, and then the paved two-lane mountain road the rest of the way down into the town of Fresno.
By the time I got to town, it was long since dark, and the businesses were closed. I got a motel and found a welder/fabricator in the phone book for tomorrow morning. My buddy was spending the night in his tent in the woods and I had a soft bed with TV (he actually was the lucky one). Bright and early the next day, I drove to the welding shop, told them my predicament, and waited around for an hour or so as they fabricated a new part (the local Jeep dealer did not have the part on hand, so simply buying one was not an option unless I wanted to wait around another day or so). The welder built a brand new part from scratch, I paid him, and then hightailed it back up to the woods (my friend and I had figured ahead of time that I wouldn't be back until the next day at the earliest).
Well, things worked out okay, but what if he had been out there alone? It was too far to walk out. He would have been at the mercy of the next adventuresome soul who happened to 'drive' by the following weekend, necessitating an entire week alone in the woods. Moral of the story: think ahead, be ready, remain positive. When I called in absent for work from Fresno on that Sunday night, my boss figured I was looking for another day in the wilds, and viewed me with suspicion upon my return Tuesday morning, even though it was all totally legitimate. But at least my Aussie bud and I survived to Jeep another day!
Other than the Vehicle Watch the weather as you commune with the great outdoors. Don't let storm clouds sneak up on you. Be ready to go to high ground in the event of a sudden and unexpected downpour. Don't camp overnight in gullies or ravines, or you may get an unwelcomed bath. Death Valley is notorious for flash floods!
Be critter aware. By that I mean to watch around you for potential danger from rattlesnakes, scorpions, tarantulas, mountain lions, bears, or whatever else happens to consider its home to be where you currently are. The type of terrain you are traveling will determine the type of critters you're likely to encounter, but with reasonable prudence, avoidance is usually easy. While I have seen many wild animals on my adventures over the years, I have never yet been the victim of one (now of course, since I just typed that statement, the third variant of Murphy's Law states that my next jaunt will change that record).
We tend to think of clothing as protection from the elements, but it can also make a difference with your fellow creatures who live under rocks. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. For example, if you are going to be in the desert, wear high-top leather boots (the higher the better). They could save you the agony of rattler fangs piercing your lower leg. You may say, "But I am just going to be in the vehicle most of the time." Well, what if you break down and have to walk? Stay in groups to keep any larger animals at bay, and don't let children wander off by themselves in the woods. Getting lost and being on the luncheon menu for a carnivore are just two reasons I can think of. While unlikely, these things should be considered on some level.
Not all dangers come from wild animals. In fact, there is less danger from them by far than another creature that occasionally lurks in the hinterlands. I remember the time long ago when I was a teenager that my dad and I were out enjoying the Mojave Desert. As we were traveling down a remote dirt road out in the middle of nowhere, we noticed an old wooden cabin off to the side, and a woman was quickly coming out to the road with something in her hands. She stepped out into the narrow dirt road and blocked our way as her hands waved a shotgun in our direction! The lady appeared very old and agitated, and I wondered how she survived out there all alone. Anyway, she claimed that we were trespassing and should immediately turn around and leave (it was in fact public land and a public road open to all). My dad's easy-going manner and soft non-threatening reply somehow worked their magic on her. Not only did she allow us to pass unhindered, she invited us in for a drink of water and a visit before we left!
The point I am getting at here is this: On really rare occasion (and I stress the word rare), it is possible to come across a human who, for whatever reasons, erroneously believes the land is theirs and that you are a threat to their rights. Don't argue with these people! You won't win. Don't lose your temper! Anger has no place in such a situation. Stay cool, because it is likely that this person may suffer from some delusional mental state, and that makes the person extremely unstable and dangerous. Comply with their wishes, resigning yourself to finding another route. Unless you are fortunate enough to make friends with such a person, the risks are simply not worth your ego satisfaction. Actually, if you do become friends, you'll likely have an ally for life, and be granted safe passage anytime you are in the area.
Dehydration should always be taken into account before you experience it; They say that once you are thirsty, you are already a quart low. Carry plenty of water. Experts now tell us we should drink at least 64 ounces of water every day (one half gallon), and up to double that if we're physically active in a hot environment. Water is always your friend (unless it comes in the form of a flash flood). Humans can live for weeks without food, but only a matter of a few days without water! Bring enough for everyone in your BEV, and tell them to bring their own in addition (what if you need radiator water?). You can never have too much.
Also, have a sun still with you - this amounts to nothing more than a 3' square piece of soft translucent plastic (like a piece of a shower curtain, for example) and a drinking cup. This will produce water for you! You can buy these commercially, or just make your own. To get water, do this: 1) dig a round hole about 18" deep and 24" in diameter, 2) put your cup in the middle of it, 3) toss some vegetation into the hole around your cup if available, 4) place the plastic over the hole, held in place by small rocks around the perimeter, 5) put a rock in the middle of the plastic, suspended over the top of your cup, about 3" above it, 6) wait until your cup runs over, and then take a drink! Water condenses on the inside of the plastic due to the hot sun making the area under the plastic very humid. The condensation then runs down the plastic and drips into your cup. Yeah, it takes a while, but beggars can't be choosers. Another variant of this method involves placing a plastic bag around a branch of vegetation on a bush, and holding the opening sealed with a string or rubber band. Condensation takes over and produces water. The sun's heat is a marvelous thing!
Unless of course, You're getting too much of it! In Death Valley on the basin's main floor during the hottest summer months, risk of death from dehydration can be a real concern because the humidity averages 20% and can often fall to only 3%. In this situation, your body efficiently sweats-out your water reserves very quickly to keep you cool: during the heat of summer you'd need 2 gallons of water per day if you only sat in the shade and did nothing, and 4 gallons if you are active in the sun. Don't confuse this with heat stroke, which is a situation in very hot high-humidity locales, where your body cannot cool you efficiently through evaporative perspiration, causing overheating and sometimes death. Dehydration is a case of your sweat evaporating immediately, which leads to a situation where your body cannot cool itself, so you overheat and die.
Getting back to clothing for a minute, it goes without saying that you should be prepared for any weather. Bring more than you need (someone else will forget to bring anything extra). Even hot desert days can turn into cold desert nights. On hot days, whether in the mountains or desert, I always keep my skin covered by clothing to avoid sun damage. My recommendation is to not wear short pants or short sleeve shirts regardless of temperature, but that is not comfortable for some folks. It's peace of mind to know that you are ready for any weather. My rig always has extra clothing for any type of conditions.
In fact, my backcountry exploration vehicle is a storehouse of emergency and survival gear of all types. I carry everything from clothing, food, water, and emergency supplies to spare vehicle parts, tools, and repair items. If necessary, I could be self-sufficient out of my truck for at least two weeks (more if I rationed well), that is if I had not repaired it first from my supplies. My buddy Rich Colley does not have all this stuff in his BEV, but one day he told me on the phone that he had a complete compliment of emergency and survival equipment. I asked him, "How so?" to which he replied that his 357 Magnum revolver gave him all the rights he needed to my storehouse. We had a great laugh over that one! He has always been the jokester (at least I certainly hope he was jesting).
Driving to Survive If you're reading this, it's a fairly safe bet you know how to drive. As in all driving, common sense plays a significant role in our safety, and a high number of mishaps and driving related problems can usually be tracked back to driver error. Know when I end up making a mistake? Yup, when I'm feeling a little rushed for whatever reason, or when my mind is wandering to places other than behind the steering wheel. I suppose that could be termed a judgment error, in that safe driving requires total concentration.
Rule number one is: don't be in a rush! Whether it's around town or on a class-3 trail, keep the mind engaged at all times. There have been a few times over the years that my backroad confidence lulled me into a false sense of security, perhaps I was going 10 MPH when I should have been crawling along at 5, and I ended up smacking part of my vehicle against something harder than sheet metal (fortunately, that has only happened to me twice, with only very minor damage). So, just by slowing down, you have more time to react to the changing terrain ... of course, proactive driving is even better still. Reading the road ahead is your best option. Try to anticipate what's coming.
All right, let's say your mind is in gear, you are as cautious as can be, and you come upon a section of backroad strewn with rocks. Since your rig has pretty good clearance, you'll be able to straddle or avoid most of them by knowing where the high points are under your BEV. If you have independent 4 wheel suspension with A-arms, the greatest clearance is often right down the middle of your rig. With standard differentials and suspension, usually driving to one side or the other allows you to drive over rocks without mishap. Most BEVs have skid plates built in nowadays, but what often comes from factories is not strong enough to do the job for folks who truly venture off the beaten path.
Let's say there is a rock up ahead, and the road is such that you can't drive around it (the best option when available). Let's also say that you can't place your rig such that straddling it will work either. Your only option is to drive right on top of it as you pass. Let's add another "oh no" to the mix: the rock is sharp ... sharp enough to maybe puncture a tire. In this scenario, make sure that you place the treaded portion of your tire atop the sharp part of the rock because treads have greater strength due to more plys, especially steel. Sidewalls are relatively weak compared to the treads, and will rip far easier. Treads can stand an unbelievable amount of rough going.
Now you're heading down the trail and notice that it crosses a streambed up ahead. Many crossings are atop river rock, thus minimizing the chances of getting stuck in mud, but not all. What if the water is murky and you can't see the bottom? Well, you could turn around (and miss all the great scenery down the road), or you could wait and watch someone else drive through the water. I carry a pair of booties (water shoes) in my truck, along with a pair of shorts just in case I need to test out the crossing first by walking it. There is rarely a good reason for taking unnecessary chances. Those who do are the ones you see stuck in water crossings, either from deep mud or because the water was deep enough to cause an engine related problem. This isn't too much of a concern in the Death Valley territory most of the time.
One more quick thought and a story about water crossings: If you have drum brakes, fording water often renders them temporarily ineffective until they dry. Back in the seventies (yes, here comes another of my stories from the old days) I drove my Jeep across a small streambed and noticed on the other side that it was really hard to stop. But the dirt road was straight so it was no big deal. The guy behind me (my friend Rich) was now crossing the water, and not knowing any better, I stopped to watch him. Well, that day, I learned to never again stop so close to the stream! He also had drum brakes on his rig, couldn't stop any better than I did, and so he ended up running into the back of my Jeep ... good thing I had a large spare tire out back to keep his grill off my two 5 gallon gas cans I used to carry. It was a soft hit fortunately, and we both had a good laugh. Today, most BEVs have disc brakes that are largely unaffected in this way. Oh yeah, I never carry gasoline like that anymore either.
Sand happens. Most of the time it isn't deep enough to cause much worry, and is usually fairly hard packed. Since I always remain on roadways, the need to air-down the tires considerably is generally not present. If you do happen upon a particularly deep section of sand, test it out first by walking. If you're still in doubt but wish to continue, letting air out of your tires can help, but how much? Experience counts here. And do you have an air compressor to reinflate them when necessary? If you drive through light to moderate sand, the main essential key is to maintain your vehicle's momentum. This keeps you on top of the sand rather than sinking in if you slow way down or stop. Again, the best option here is to test by walking first. Never jump into anything without knowing what the consequences are. I have driven many miles over many years through sandy portions of roadways in sandwashes, with standard tire pressure, and not been stuck. You will get a lot of different opinions on this one.
Know where I used to see the most accidents as a cop in the backcountry? On blind curves. People tend to think that because they're out in the middle of nowhere on an old dirt road that they don't have to worry about oncoming traffic. Well, that's not the case, as many unfortunate souls have learned the hard way! Often times people tend to drive down the middle of primitive roads that are narrow anyway, so you get two cars from opposite directions doing that on a blind curve and a head-on is the result. If each BEV is doing 20 miles per hour, that's like hitting a concrete wall at 40! This is clearly a very real concern, and it is best to drive as though there will be another vehicle around every corner. Speed kills! This concern is why the National Park Service has kept Titus Canyon one-way through its entire length.
Ooh, here's something else that just came to my mind (however feeble it may be). What's the most fun you can have on narrow primitive dirt roads on the sides of steep mountains? Switchbacks, of course ... ones that can't be negotiated in one continual turn. If you don't already know, never cut a switchback too close to the inside corner; it may result in a roll-over - and that's not the way to have fun in the outback! Drive as far forward as you can, and then stop (you have little choice, of course), cut your wheels the opposite way, and back up as far as you can (usually until your rear bumper touches the hillside behind you). Turn your wheels once again in the direction of the road, pulling forward as far as possible yet another time. If it's a really sharp switchback, you'll have to back up a second time, and repeat the entire process again. Each time you have to stop and backup, it adds another point to the turn. A 3-point turn is a tough switchback, especially considering the reason for the tightness is because the road probably is etched out of a steep hillside, and all the while you're looking out into precious more than blue sky and distant scenery down below. There is not much of this in Death Valley National Park, but we do run across mild switchbacks on a few of the roads.
The phenomenon known as "off camber" is one that will wake up even daydreaming drivers. Can you say Steel Pass? It's when your BEV begins tipping to the side because the road isn't level laterally (left and right). Every now and then primitive roads experience this because some of these roads originated long ago under conditions where proper construction was not an option. If a road is far enough off camber, it's best to walk it first to make an assessment. Once you try driving it, go very slowly so that if you get spooked you can back out of it. You might be surprised to know that most BEVs will tip quite a bit farther than you'd expect, but inherent caution usually keeps things safe. A little of this tippy stuff is okay now and then, but it gets old real fast if it's on the side of a steep mountain where our stomachs become unsettled looking down!
What happens if you meet a BEV coming the other way on a road only wide enough for one rig? Well, that's why there is a reverse in your transmission, of course! Seriously, if you see this scenario approaching, remember that the driver traveling uphill has the right-of-way. The downhill driver usually is responsible to either backup or pull over far enough to let the uphill vehicle pass. I say usually because sometimes the uphill driver may just happen to have a convenient pull off area (sometimes barely large enough to fit a vehicle). If the road is on a mountainside, but level, then each driver should be looking for options. Basically, it's a cooperative effort often negotiated by sign language as each driver motions appropriately. You rarely get bored on these roads.
Sometimes dirt backroads descend steep hills. Overuse of your brakes can heat them up and make stopping dangerous. Use low gears on steep hills, keeping the BEV in low-range if possible. Let the gearing maintain a nice slow comfortable speed so that you don't have to use the brakes nearly as much. Slow is a word I like! It keeps me safe so that I can enjoy the backcountry.
One final driving tip I'll cover here has its roots in human psychology. It is important to realize when you are being influenced by this subtle aspect of the mind that can lead to mishap. So what is it? Well, it sometimes goes by several descriptors: bravado, machismo, or the need to project an image that one can do something as well as anyone else, without fear. I know this is real because I have at times in my own life suffered from it, and I've seen plenty of other humans (men and women both) who have also fallen victim to its insidious grip. This can get you into trouble, sometimes big trouble.
Out in the middle of nowhere is no place to worry about image (of course, if you had tried convincing me of this when I was in my twenties, I believe it may have fallen on deaf ears). It probably boils down to a self-esteem issue I suppose, but be that as it may, the best way to approach backcountry terrain is in a state of humility. Get too smug and, sure enough, old Murphy is bound to jump out of the bushes and take the air right out of your sails! We aren't out here to prove anything to anybody, so we should just admit that, "Hey, I'm a little unsure about how to best approach this obstacle. Can you help me?"
I hop into my BEV and head out to the hinterlands for the wilderness experience, and it is best enjoyed if I'm not overly worried about personal or vehicular injury. Sure, I do enjoy a challenging road too, and most of these types of roads can be traversed successfully through driving experience or being assisted by someone who understands the nuances of backroad navigation. The whole idea is to have fun, be relaxed, and marvel at the awesome planet on which we live.
High Tech Goodies Fortunately, nowadays we have a few options for getting help that weren't available years ago in the seventies when I couldn't wait to drive every Class 5 road around. I put a CB radio in my truck (about a fourth the size of the one I used to have in my CJ). These little radios are great fun to use with others in your caravan for communication, and they no longer require FCC licensing. It is possible to use them in the event of a breakdown to call the local emergency services, who often monitor channel 9, if you are in line-of-sight between your antenna and the receiving antenna. This could be but a short distance or many miles depending on the terrain. Besides that, it is sometimes fun to monitor the CB while you're traveling the highway.
Another neat little thing (everything's little these days), are those hand-size walkie-talkies with a 2 to 7 mile range. I can think of all kinds of scenarios for them. Car to car on the trail if your friends don't have CBs, person to person while hiking the canyons, or person to car if a spotter needs to guide you over a rough area of road from a distance. My local Radio Shack dealer told me about a case in Oregon where a stranded mountain climber on Mount Hood used his communicator to call for help in Portland over 75 miles away - due to the climber's great elevation, his walkie-talkie's signal reached the metro area and he was rescued from the snowy slopes! Amazing story. You have to remember though that this was a fluke, a rare event where circumstances happened to be just right, because these units generally could not be relied on to rescue you if you're really way out there.
I have found that cell phones are largely ineffective way out in the boondocks, at least the times I have tried testing them to learn if they could be a realistic method of signaling help. I've tried on the tops of 13,000 foot passes in the Colorado Rockies and elsewhere, usually getting the message that there was no service available at my location. That's not too reassuring, especially if you're in an area where no one else is nearby with a CB radio to pick you up. Quite surprisingly however, on a 7 day solo backroad trek in Death Valley and the Panamint Mountains, the cell phone had service 6 out of the 7 days (but I had to usually climb a small mountain though to get out). It all depends on where the microwave towers are located. Sometimes a CB will get you help from a fellow explorer, where a cell phone is nothing but a fancy, yet useless, piece of technology.
Something far superior in effectiveness, but very spendy, is a satellite telephone. These little gems, with their large antennas, use satellites in space to relay your message, and are far more reliable than cell phones, which use microwave relay towers on Earth. In places where cell phones don't work at all, such as the 12,000' pass roads in the Rockies, satellite phones apparently excel, and at the bottom of deep canyons, they also work when a satellite is overhead (this is according to a company spokesman to whom I spoke for information).
There is a very unfortunate downside however, and that is cost! These communication devices currently cost hundreds of dollars. But the most unfortunate consideration is that the service providers currently have no service option for someone like myself who only wants the phone strictly for emergency situations. The least expensive option is a monthly payment of $39.95 for 40 minutes of airtime. So, it will cost you at least $479.40 every year to keep the phone available even if you never use it! I will definitely applaud the company that hopefully someday initiates a low-cost service plan for emergency-only users (perhaps a pay-as-you-use plan that does not have a time limit on usage, where the company is suitably compensated by charging a very high per-minute charge for emergency calls).
This next little bit of technological genius doesn't cost a penny once you buy it (except for batteries), but it costs roughly the equivalent of a satellite phone initially. It is a GPS emergency beacon. GPS, as you most likely know, stands for Global Positioning System, and, like the satellite phone, uses orbiting satellites to transfer your signal. But, unlike the satellite phone, the GPS beacon allows no conversation. To be used only for life-threatening emergencies, the palm-sized GPS emergency beacon requires only that you flip a switch to activate it. According to manufacturer's claims, within 3 minutes your distress signal will be beamed off an orbiting antenna and back to Planet Earth where it will be intercepted by emergency services personnel in your area, who will then know your location within 100 feet! Amazing, huh? All you have to do is sit back and enjoy the scenery, awaiting your rescue (along with a possible invoice for rescue services that will have you paying long into retirement). At least you will be alive to pay it!
As you can see, there are several methods of helping to insure your safe return from your primitive four wheel drive and hiking adventures. Some are inexpensive, while the best options are out of reach for many of us. If you have money to burn, you could have all the little toys in your rig for rescue, but nothing is as good as the brain that resides inside your head for staying out of trouble in the first place. That is really the key here avoid trouble ahead of time by taking reasonable precautions, or, if you are like me, take even more precautions that the average prudent human would not take. I try to prepare for anything, and in so doing, cheat Mr. Murphy out of his Law.
Tell a Friend Here's something that's really important (and it's free) - be sure that someone who didn't go on the trip knows where you are and when you'll be back. Give them your itinerary. If it's way out in the boonies, leave them a map with your expected route highlighted. If you're with a group of vehicles, this becomes less of an issue than if you're driving alone in one rig. The person you entrust with this info is your lifeline in the event of disaster.
Make a couple of phone calls ahead of time to local authorities in the area you plan on exploring. Ask them for the condition of your intended 4x4 road or hiking trail, and what the weather has been like lately. Check to see if any of the roads have been closed or are now in designated wilderness areas. Some regions where I used to drive 30+ years ago are now closed to vehicles.
In addition to telling a friend, see if you can get a bunch of them to also go with you! That's the most fun to be had out where the pavement ends. There's nothing quite as memorable as camping out with the crew in the middle of nowhere.
Mapping it Out Those are some of the emergency topics, so now comes the most fun part of preparation for the adventure. Planning your route! Ever since I was a kid, I loved to look at maps. Even today I can spend hours pouring over every little road and wondering what it's like if I haven't been there before. I look for incredible land formations, biological curiosities, and ghost towns rich in history. I search out the roads indicated by two parallel dashed lines because these are the ones listed as primitive, poor, or 4wd, and the ones I especially like to drive! I enjoy seeing things and going places that are too remote or unreachable by most people. I do not care for crowds. I do love the natural world. Nature without crowds is ideal! I use maps to locate these places. Once I get to them, hiking on foot gets me even farther away.
Then I make a plan. Gee, sometimes I think that planning the trip is just as fun as taking it. How many days? Who will go with me? What will we see? Where will we camp? Will our vehicles make the trek in perfect working order? What will the hike be like, and what will the views be on the walk? How will we feel when we return? The anticipation and planning of the outing is an exciting time for me ... it's a time when my imagination takes hold and provides an extra impetus for the actual trip. By the way, don't forget to always bring detailed maps of the areas you are going to travel!
We love the wilderness too! I've been discussing our human survival in the outback on this page, but would now like to take a moment to talk about a few issues that bear on the survival of the outback itself - concerns where our human actions continue to impact the wilds we all love so much, and cause a lot of philosophical division among users of the land.
Stepping onto on my soapbox once more, I wish to make a statement of personal belief: Respect nature, respect the wilds, respect the incredible planet we call home. Stay on the roads, and don't participate in destructive driving practices. Don't litter. You packed it in, so now pack it out to the next available PTR (public trash receptacle). Clean up after others who do not respect these principles. Do your part so that when anyone sees a group of us coming down the dirt road, they'll greet us with respect and admiration. "Walk the talk" as the saying goes!
These things are obvious to those of us who are enamored with the beauty and mystery of nature, and we would never even consider tossing out trash, driving off the roadway or trail, or otherwise contributing to the degradation of the areas we love to explore. If you are reading this, I am probably "preaching to the choir" as they say. However, thanks to a few inconsiderate four wheelers, and the negative publicity that follows their uncaring and sometimes malicious deeds, the general public often tends to lump us all together. This biased concept really hit home recently when a TV commercial for an all-wheel-drive station wagon portrayed a more traditional BEV and its driver as destroying the quiet serenity of nature. It made me sad to see it, knowing that for such an idea to make it to public television, it must be widely held.
Destructive media campaigns continue to emerge from both "sides" of the fence, compromising efforts of cooperation and harmonious planetary coexistence. Consider these following two emotionally confrontational examples:
Unfortunately, even the media who make their living by covering the backroad world occasionally contribute to its demise. Case in point: I was reading a popular four wheel drive magazine recently, and was saddened to see the words one staff writer used to describe people who wish to protect nature ... "enviro nazis" was his terminology. Such verbiage only serves to divide and enrage. There is no defense for using inflammatory words. That writer wants to keep areas open to use his truck, yet he chose to upset environmentally sensitive folks who read his article. True, there are those at opposite ends of every disciplinary spectrum in life, but we do share this planet, and I feel we should all be working towards a cooperative solution of shared management and Earth-friendly usage, not fighting one another while proclaiming our way the only way.
The "other side" is also insensitive at times. It was sad for me to come upon an editorial drawing at a very well-known environmental website, showing a caricature of the planet Earth with a BEV tire tread imprint flattening about half of the planet. Underneath the sketch were the words, "What was that bump?" To me, this strongly inferred that those who use vehicles to discover the natural wonders of the world do not care about Earth's health. Such unthinking generalizations are counterproductive and inaccurate. Ironically, I happen to passionately agree with the organization's mission statement and goals of environmental stewardship, and I participate in a carbon emissions offset program, so I personally feel that to alienate supporters is not in anyone's best interest. I believe the most prudent course of caring action is a common spirit of cooperation!
Perhaps I'm a dreamer when I talk about my hopes for cooperation within the community of humans regardless of their individual agendas, but so be it ... I'll keep striving towards the ideal of empathetic cooperation in our ecological efforts, just as I strive to improve my personal contributions.
Towards the goal of planetary and human survival, I eagerly anticipate the future time when we can visit the far reaches of nature in vehicles that truly leave absolutely no atmospheric evidence of their visit; a time when, working together harmoniously, the most ardent supporters of all points of view can overcome political, financial, and social impediments that continue the current status quo of environmental destruction, and a time when the balance of nature is once again firmly entrenched about the Earth.
Making a difference starts with you and me! The more of us who can actively dispel the thought that all people who venture off the pavement onto dirt backroads in vehicles are environmentally destructive, the better off we'll all be. It's a first step towards a better tomorrow. Let's all be courteous and empathetic in all our actions. As the wise Mahatma Gandhi once said, "We must become the change we want to see."
WARNING OF INHERENT RISKS Backcountry exploration, travel on unpaved primitive roads, and hiking far from human habitation can endanger yourself and your vehicle. Such activity carries with it inherent risks including, but not limited to, tire punctures, sheet metal damage from rocks, paint scratches, vehicular destruction, hypothermia, dehydration, starvation, wild animal attack, consequences from medical problems arising in the absence of a medical professional, and death. Prior to embarking upon a backcountry safari, you must personally evaluate these potential outcomes, voluntarily choose to explore with full understanding of the inherent risks involved, and do so while fully accepting personal responsibility for yourself, your vehicle, and anyone in your care. While all reasonable diligence has been brought to bear in the creation of this website to inform you how to keep you and your vehicle safe from harm, there are no guarantees or promises, stated or implied, given to you by WildDeathValley.com with regards to the risks involved in any backcountry activity. Backcountry exploration is always unpredictable and often dangerous. Never go alone or with only one vehicle. Always inform Rangers of your intended route. YOU CHOOSE TO EXPLORE THE BACKCOUNTRY ENTIRELY AT YOUR OWN RISK!
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